Figured Double Cloth (DC2): Construction, Working Principle and Jacquard Weaving
Introduction
Figured Double Cloth is an important type of compound fabric used in handloom weaving, particularly for producing decorative and figured designs with the help of a Jacquard mechanism.
Unlike a simple single-layer fabric, double cloth is constructed with two layers of fabric woven one above the other. These layers are interlinked at selected points so that they behave as one fabric. Double cloth can provide greater thickness, warmth, body, durability and attractive surface effects.
When a figured design is incorporated into a double-cloth structure, the fabric is known as Figured Double Cloth.
In handloom production, Jacquard is particularly useful for controlling individual warp ends and producing large and intricate figured designs beyond the practical range of ordinary shaft shedding.
What is Figured Double Cloth?
Figured Double Cloth (DC2) is a compound woven fabric consisting of two layers in which a decorative or figured design is produced through the controlled interlacement of the warp and weft systems.
The two layers may be formed using:
Face warp
Face weft
Back warp
Back weft
Depending on the construction, the two layers are connected by suitable stitching or interchanging arrangements.
The figure may be produced by changing the colour or interlacement relationship between the two layers.
Basic Principle of Double Cloth
The basic principle of double cloth is to produce two separate layers of fabric simultaneously on the same loom.
The upper layer is generally called the face cloth, while the lower layer is called the back cloth.
The layers are kept together by selected binding or stitching points.
A simplified arrangement is:
Face Layer
Face Warp + Face Weft
↓
Stitching / Interconnection
↓
Back Layer
Back Warp + Back Weft
The exact method of interconnection depends on the type of double cloth being produced.
Main Components of Figured Double Cloth
A typical figured double-cloth structure may contain the following thread systems:
1. Face Warp
The warp threads forming the upper or face layer of the fabric.
2. Face Weft
The weft threads interlacing with the face warp.
3. Back Warp
The warp threads forming the lower or back layer.
4. Back Weft
The weft threads forming the back layer.
5. Binding or Stitching Arrangement
Selected interlacements connect the two layers and prevent them from separating.
6. Jacquard Mechanism
A Jacquard mechanism can control individual warp ends to form complex figured designs.
Why is Figured Double Cloth Used?
Figured double cloth is used when the fabric requires:
A two-layer construction
Greater thickness
Better body and handle
Attractive figured effects
Contrasting colour effects
Reversible or partially reversible effects
Decorative surface patterns
Better thermal insulation in suitable constructions
Double-layer structures generally require more yarn and weaving operations than simple single cloth, which can increase fabric weight, production time and cost.
Classification of Double Cloth
Double cloth can be classified according to the method by which the two layers are connected.
Important categories include:
Self-stitched double cloth
Centre-stitched double cloth
Double cloth with thread interchange
Reversible double cloth
Non-reversible double cloth
Figured double cloth
The exact classification may vary according to the construction and textile technology terminology being followed.
Figured Double Cloth and Jacquard
Jacquard is particularly suitable for figured double cloth because it provides individual control of warp ends.
A conventional shaft loom controls groups of warp ends through shafts. A Jacquard mechanism, in contrast, can control individual ends according to the design requirements, making it suitable for large and complicated figured patterns.
For this reason, Jacquard weaving is widely associated with figured fabrics such as damask, brocade and other complex decorative structures.
Construction of a Two-Colour Figured Double Cloth
In a two-colour figured double cloth, two different colour effects can be obtained by controlling which yarn system becomes visible at different portions of the design.
For example:
Colour A may dominate the ground.
Colour B may appear in the figured area.
By changing the interlacement and layer relationship, the figure can be made clearly visible against the ground.
The design therefore depends not only on the motif but also on the correct structural arrangement.
Design Preparation
The preparation of figured double cloth generally involves several important stages.
Step 1 – Selection of Motif
A suitable motif is selected according to the required fabric design.
The motif may be:
Floral
Geometrical
Paisley
Traditional Indian
Abstract
Symbolic
The selected motif is then adapted to the required repeat size.
Step 2 – Preparation of Design Graph
The motif is transferred to graph paper or a suitable digital design system.
Each square of the graph represents a particular design position.
The designer decides which areas will produce the required colour or figured effect.
Step 3 – Selection of Ground Weave
A suitable ground weave is selected according to the required fabric construction.
Possible ground structures include:
Plain weave
Twill
Satin/Sateen
Other suitable basic structures
The selection depends on the required appearance, stability and fabric properties.
Step 4 – Determination of Warp and Weft Systems
The number and arrangement of the warp and weft systems are determined.
Important constructional factors include:
Warp count
Weft count
Ends per inch or centimetre
Picks per inch or centimetre
Face/back ratio
Colour arrangement
Stitching arrangement
Repeat size
Drafting and Peg/Tie-Up Plan
After the design and structure have been decided, the appropriate draft and peg/tie-up plan are prepared.
For Jacquard weaving, the design must ultimately be translated into the required lifting instructions for the Jacquard harness.
The drafting method depends on the selected construction and Jacquard setup.
A correct draft ensures that the required warp ends are connected to the appropriate lifting elements.
Card Punching for Jacquard
In a traditional punched-card Jacquard system, the design information is transferred to punched cards.
The basic sequence is:
Design → Point Paper → Card Preparation → Card Punching → Card Lacing → Jacquard → Loom → Fabric
Each card corresponds to a pick or design row according to the particular Jacquard arrangement.
The holes determine which hooks or warp ends are selected for lifting.
Modern Jacquard systems may use electronic control rather than traditional punched cards, but the fundamental objective remains the same: selecting the required warp ends according to the design.
Lacing of Jacquard Cards
After punching, the cards are arranged in the correct sequence and connected or laced together.
The sequence must be accurate because an incorrect card order can cause:
Design distortion
Incorrect motifs
Repetition errors
Missing design portions
Proper card preparation is therefore an important part of traditional Jacquard weaving.
Weaving Procedure
The general weaving process can be summarized as follows:
1. Warp Preparation
The required warp yarns are prepared according to the fabric specification.
2. Beaming
The warp is wound onto the appropriate warp beam.
3. Drawing-In
The warp ends are drawn through the required heddles and other elements according to the construction.
4. Denting
The warp ends are passed through the reed according to the required denting plan.
5. Jacquard Harness Preparation
The Jacquard harness is arranged according to the design.
6. Setting the Weft
The face and back weft systems are prepared according to the fabric construction.
7. Shedding
The Jacquard selects the required warp ends to create the shed.
8. Picking
The required weft is inserted through the shed.
9. Beat-Up
The inserted weft is beaten into position by the reed.
10. Layer Formation and Stitching
The two cloth layers are formed and connected according to the selected double-cloth structure.
11. Repetition of the Design
The weaving cycle continues until the complete design repeat is produced.
Important Points to Consider in Figured Double Cloth
The following factors are important when designing and weaving DC2:
Correct design repeat
Correct warp and weft ratio
Suitable ground weave
Proper face and back layer formation
Correct stitching points
Correct colour arrangement
Proper Jacquard capacity
Correct harness arrangement
Accurate card punching
Correct card sequence
Suitable yarn count
Appropriate warp and weft density
Proper tension
Correct beat-up
Any error in the structural plan may affect the appearance and stability of the finished fabric.
Advantages of Figured Double Cloth
Figured double cloth has several advantages.
1. Attractive Design Effects
Complex figured motifs can be produced with suitable Jacquard control.
2. Greater Thickness
Two layers can provide a thicker fabric than a comparable single cloth.
3. Better Body
The compound construction can provide increased body and firmness.
4. Colour Effects
Different warp and weft colours can create interesting face and back effects.
5. Decorative Applications
The technique is suitable for fabrics requiring elaborate designs.
6. Possibility of Reversible Effects
Certain constructions can produce attractive effects on both sides.
Limitations
Figured double cloth also has some limitations:
More yarn is required.
Construction is more complicated.
Design preparation takes more time.
Jacquard setup is more complex.
Production can be slower than simple single cloth.
The fabric may become heavier.
Incorrect stitching can cause structural problems.
Manufacturing cost can be higher.
Double-cloth production generally requires more material and weaving effort than a single-layer structure.
Applications of Figured Double Cloth
Figured double cloth may be used for:
Decorative handloom fabrics
Furnishing fabrics
Heavy apparel fabrics
Shawls and wraps
Jackets and coats
Upholstery
Blankets
Decorative textile articles
Traditional and contemporary handloom products
The actual application depends on the fibre, yarn count, construction, weight and finishing of the fabric.
Figured Double Cloth vs Single Cloth
| Feature | Single Cloth | Figured Double Cloth |
|---|---|---|
| Number of layers | One | Two |
| Construction | Comparatively simple | More complex |
| Yarn systems | Usually one warp and one weft | Multiple warp/weft systems |
| Thickness | Usually lower | Generally higherl |
| Design possibilities | Depends on loom mechanism | High with Jacquard |
| Production complexity | Lower | Higher |
| Material requirement | Lower | Higher |
| Jacquard suitability | Possible | Highly suitable for complex figures |
Figured Double Cloth vs Ordinary Double Cloth
| Feature | Ordinary Double Cloth | Figured Double Cloth |
|---|---|---|
| Two-layer structure | Yes | Yes |
| Figured motif | May be absent | Main feature |
| Jacquard | Not always required | Commonly used |
| Design complexity | Moderate | High |
| Colour effects | Depends on structure | Often intentionally controlled |
| Main purpose | Thickness, warmth, structure | Structure + decorative figuring |
Common Problems in Figured Double Cloth
Design does not appear correctly
Possible causes include incorrect design transfer, wrong card sequence or incorrect harness arrangement.
Layers separate
This may occur when the selected stitching or binding arrangement is insufficient.
Uneven figure
Possible causes include incorrect warp tension, inaccurate design preparation or weaving irregularities.
Colour effect is incorrect
The colour arrangement and layer selection should be checked.
Fabric becomes too heavy
The total yarn density and face/back construction should be reviewed.
Important Examination Points
For students of Handloom and Textile Technology, the following topics are particularly important:
Define double cloth.
Define figured double cloth.
Explain the principle of double cloth.
Name the different thread systems used in double cloth.
Explain self-stitched double cloth.
Explain centre-stitched double cloth.
Explain reversible and non-reversible double cloth.
Explain the role of Jacquard in figured double cloth.
Explain the preparation of a figured double-cloth design.
Explain card punching.
Explain the weaving process.
State the advantages and limitations of figured double cloth.
Explain the difference between single cloth and double cloth.
Explain the importance of stitching points.
Double-cloth and figured-double-cloth construction are also relevant to formal textile-technology study and examination topics, including questions involving Jacquard setups and punching procedures.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is figured double cloth?
Figured double cloth is a two-layer woven fabric in which a decorative or figured effect is produced through controlled interlacement of multiple warp and weft systems.
Why is Jacquard used for figured double cloth?
Jacquard provides individual control of warp ends, making it suitable for large and intricate figured designs.
How many layers are present in double cloth?
The basic double-cloth construction contains two layers woven one above the other.
What are the main thread systems in double cloth?
A typical construction may contain face warp, face weft, back warp and back weft, with suitable stitching or interconnection.
Is figured double cloth thicker than single cloth?
Generally, yes. Because it contains two woven layers, it can provide greater thickness and body, although the final result depends on the yarns and construction.
What is the purpose of stitching in double cloth?
Stitching or interconnection keeps the two layers together and allows them to function as a single fabric.
Can figured double cloth be produced on a handloom?
Yes. With a suitable Jacquard arrangement and properly prepared design, figured double cloth can be produced on a handloom.
Conclusion
Figured Double Cloth is an important compound weaving technique that combines the structural advantages of double cloth with the decorative possibilities of figured weaving.
The production of a successful figured double cloth requires careful planning of the motif, weave structure, warp and weft systems, stitching arrangement, Jacquard harness, design transfer and weaving process.
For handloom weavers and textile students, understanding the relationship between design, structure and Jacquard control is essential for producing high-quality figured double-cloth fabrics.
Figured double cloth therefore represents an important connection between traditional handloom construction and advanced figured-design techniques.
Related Articles
You can connect this article with other Handloom Knowledge articles through internal links:
Figured Single Cloth
Jacquard Machine: Introduction, Parts and Their Functions
Jala Technique
Patent Satin
Extra Warp Design
Figured Double Cloth DC4
Different Types of Weaving Techniques
These internal links will help readers move naturally between related handloom and textile-technology topics.
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