Jacquard Technique| Jacquard Weaving |Definition of Jacquard loom by J.M Jacquard | Object of cross border jacquard weaving |
Jacquard | Definition of Jacquard loom by J.M Jacquard |
What is Jacquard | Jacquard kya Hai | Object of cross border jacquard weaving | What is Jacquard front side?
Question-What is the meaning of Jacquard?
Ans-
Jacquard is a shedding device that is a combination of Needles and Hooks. Its main function is to lift the warp threads according to design and produce the design on fabric. We can use the Jacquard device when the design is on the board. The jacquard machine is for floral design (Small or Big), particularly elaborate design which is not generally possible on Dobby. Single lift and single Cylinder is the simplest Jacquard among them. It has a different capacity starting from 100 Hooks to 1200 Hooks. It is used both Handloom and Power loom. A Jacquard system usually located above the loom and control a large number of warp threads independently by means of harness cord, hooks and needles. Each hook in a Jacquard represents a single heald or single thread lift for design.
History of Jacquard-
Jacquard Technique was invented by a French (France) weaver named Joseph Marry Jacquard in 1801 BC and some say in 1804 BC. It was so named after his personal name. This was first exhibited at a national Exhibition in Paris.
A theoretical view of Jacquard-
Different size of Jacquard Machine:
|
Jacquard
Size |
Hook
per row |
Number
of row |
Number
of stool hooks |
|
100 |
4 |
26 |
104 |
|
200 |
4 |
51 |
204 |
|
200 |
8 |
26 |
208 |
|
300 |
6 |
51 |
306 |
|
300 |
8 |
38 |
304 |
|
300 |
12 |
26 |
312 |
|
400 |
8 |
51 |
408 |
|
500 |
10 |
51 |
510 |
|
600 |
12 |
51 |
612 |
|
800 |
8 |
101 |
808 |
|
900 |
12 |
76 |
912 |
|
1200 |
12 |
101 |
1212 |
The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |
The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.
1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.
2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.
The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |
The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.
1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.
2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.
1. Jacquard is a shedding device which is used to produce complicated woven design which can't be made by using the Dobby or Tappet Shedding mechanism.
2. Jacquard was developed in the year 1801 by the Jopesh Marry Jacquard (1752-1834), who was French weaver and merchant.
3. In jacquard shedding mechanism individuals’ yarns can be controlled independently, so large woven figured produce in fabric.
4. The Jacquard loom consists of two parts one is the loom and another is Jacquard.
5. The loom is situated at the flooring and the Jacquard is situated above the loom.
6. Jacquard shedding is a piece of mechanism for sleeting and lifting or lowering a group of ends in a repeat. is Negative type of shedding.
Different types of Jacquard
Special Jacquard are modification of ordinary ones. These are design to increase the figuring capacity of the Jacquard or to weave special types of fabrics. Some of the specials Jacquard are-
1. Cross boarder Jacquard
2. Leno Jacquard
3. Scal harness or banister Jacquard
4. Pressove harness Jacquard
5. Twilling Jacquard
6. Inverted hooks Jacquard
7. Jacquard with working comber board.
8. Fine pitch Jacquard
Categories of Jacquard-
Mechanical Jacquard system can be classified under 3 categories
1. Single Lift and Single Cylinder Jacquard (SLSC)
2. Double Lift and Single Cylinder (DCSL)
3. Double Lift Double Cylinder (DLDC)
Categories Jacquard tie
1. London System
2. Norwhich system
1. London System of harness tie-
* When the Jacquard machine is placed above the loom that the cylinder is either right or left in position of the loom is called the London System harness tie.
* The long rows of hooks in the machine are at right angle of the row of the holes in the comber board and the harness receives a quater turn or a partial crossing in passing from the hook through the comber board.
* The only difference between this method of harness tie is that the Jacquard machine is tomed one quatre way round with relation to the loom.
* When this method is used the cord of the Jacquard machine hang either over the right hand or left-hand side of the loom.
Norwhich system of Harness tie-
* When Jacquard machine is mounted with the parallel of the loom is called Norwhich system of harness tie.
* In this Jacquard the long rows of needle are parallel to the comber board and at the right angle to the warp.
* The cord will be at the front or at the back of the loom.
* The cylinder is either to the front or back of the loom.
Different types of Harness Tie-
The both London and Norwhich are divided into the following 5 types
1. Straight tie
2. Pointed tie
3. Body and boarder tie.
4. Sectional tie
5. Mixed tie.
Straight tie
This is the most common design tie used for both Norwhich and London harness tie.
The fabric contains more than one repeat of the design in its full width.
In this tie there must be as many harnesses’ cords tie to each neck cords as there are repeats in the full width of the fabric.
Thus, if there are and repeats of the pattern in the width of the fabric then there will be 4 harness cords tied ti each neck cord or hook.
Pointed or Cantered tie
This type of tie is suitable use when a design is symmetrical, if it turned over the central line.
Suppose the design shown in the figure completes 400 ends in its full repeats.
The number of ends from the central line to each dotted line is 200 repeating a half repeat of the design.
The harness line are connected from the 1st to 200 hooks in a regular order and then from the 399th, the harness line are connected in the reverse order that is from 199th to the 2nd hook from where the order is against reversed and the harness cord is passed through hole No.1 in the comber board number 200nd in the centre and number 1 repeat at the right.
The design with the omission of these ends will have to totally398 end instead of 400 ends origa…
Boarder and Body tie
A tie which is used mainly used for bordered fabrics like Saree, Furnishing materials etc.
In this tie one repeats of the boarder of the boarder figure is made at CACH SIDE OF THE FABRIC ONLY.
The central design is, however repeat number of times.
The central portion may have a pointed or centre repeating and any appropriate number of hooks any be assigned for the boarder and body design of the fabric.
Sectional Tie
This kind of tie is used in Jacquard weaving where more than one kind of warp is used. In this system the comber board is divided in to 2 or more equal parts. Similarly, the hooks are divided into two sections, such that they are in some protection as the warp threads of each kind from each section of hook. The harness cord is passed through a separate longitudinal section of the comber board and each kind of warp is drawn through the harness mails of the section allotted to it.
Mixed Tie
This tie-up is a combination of the straight through boarder and centre tie-up methods. This system is employed for the purpose of enabling a certain portion of the design to be introduced more or less frequently than others portion. The first set of 160 hooks is harnessed in a boarder tie manner. The next 80 hooks the remaining 160 hooks are harnessed in a painted its manner.
Figured single cloth
Method of producing Figured single cloth-
Warp- Single series, single colour
Jacquard- Ordinary Jacquard, 1 Hook 1 Needle
Tie/Draft- Straight tie and Straight Draft.
Graph preparation-
1. The numbers of ends in the Graph = Numbers of Hooks
2. Numbers of picks in the graph = Depends on the length of the design and picks per Inch.
3. Enlarge and give stepping
4. Point the figure portion to show warp up leaving ground portion to show Weft up.
5. Given binding marks in figure and ground portion (Plain, Twill and Satin etc) binding mark are not given in the corners and stepping.
6. Indicate selvedge weave marks.
7. Divide the ends in graph. Number of ends in each group = Numbers of needle in short rows.
Punching
1 Pick = 1 Card, Pu…
Lacing-
All the cards are laced in the regular order 1,2,3,4,.....
Weaving-
Weaving is done with single shuttle with mono colour.
Comments
Post a Comment