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Figured Double Cloth (DC4): Construction, Working Principle, Design and Weaving

Introduction

Figured Double Cloth (DC4) is an advanced woven structure in which two separate layers of fabric are formed simultaneously and are arranged to produce a figured or decorative effect.

Double-cloth construction provides greater possibilities for producing fabrics with different colours, textures, structures, and figured effects. In figured double cloth, the two layers are selectively related through a planned interchanging or binding system so that the required design appears on the fabric surface.

Figured double cloth is an important topic in textile technology because it combines the principles of double-cloth construction, layer exchange, binding, drafting, lifting plans, and figured design.

What is Figured Double Cloth?

Figured double cloth is a woven fabric consisting of two layers of cloth formed at the same time, with the construction arranged to create a predetermined figured effect.

The two layers generally consist of:

Face warp
Face weft
Back warp
Back weft

The layers may remain separate in some areas and interact or interchange according to the construction and design requirements.

Simple Definition

Figured double cloth is a two-layer woven structure in which the arrangement of the two cloth layers is controlled to produce a predetermined figured design.

What Does DC4 Mean?

In textile-design terminology, DC4 is commonly used to identify a particular figured double-cloth construction/design classification.

The exact notation used for double-cloth structures can vary between textbooks, institutions, and design systems. Therefore, when studying or preparing a DC4 design, the construction plan and layer relationship should always be considered along with the abbreviation.

Basic Construction of Double Cloth

A double cloth contains two sets of warp and two sets of weft.

Warp Systems

Face warp
Back warp

Weft Systems

Face weft
Back weft

Therefore, the basic arrangement can be represented as:

Face Warp + Face Weft → Face Layer

Back Warp + Back Weft → Back Layer

The two layers are then controlled according to the required design.

Principle of Figured Double Cloth

The main principle of figured double cloth is the formation of two cloth layers in the same weaving process.

The required design is obtained by controlling the interlacement of the warp and weft systems.

Depending on the construction, a particular area may show:

Face fabric
Back fabric
Exchange of layers
Binding between layers
A combination of structural effects

This produces the visible figured appearance.

Main Elements of Figured Double Cloth

1. Face Warp

Face warp forms the main warp system of the upper or face layer.

2. Back Warp

Back warp forms the warp system of the lower or back layer.

3. Face Weft

Face weft mainly participates in forming the face layer.

4. Back Weft

Back weft mainly participates in forming the back layer.

5. Binding

Binding points connect the two layers where required and help maintain the structural integrity of the fabric.

6. Layer Exchange

Layer exchange is an important feature of many figured double-cloth constructions. It allows one layer to appear at the surface in selected areas.

7. Draft

The draft determines how the warp ends are distributed among the heald shafts.

8. Lifting Plan

The lifting plan determines which shafts are raised for each pick.

9. Jacquard or Other Pattern-Control Mechanism

Where a complex figured design is required, Jacquard control may be used to obtain the necessary shaft or warp selection.

Difference Between Single Cloth and Double Cloth

Feature	Single Cloth	Double Cloth
Warp systems	Generally one	Generally two
Weft systems	Generally one	Generally two
Layers	One	Two
Thickness	Usually lower	Can be higher
Design possibilities	Moderate	Higher
Structural complexity	Lower	Higher
Typical use	General fabrics	Heavy, reversible and figured fabrics

Difference Between Double Cloth and Figured Double Cloth

A basic double cloth primarily focuses on the formation of two layers.

A figured double cloth additionally uses planned structural changes or layer relationships to create a decorative design.

Therefore:

Double Cloth = Two-layer construction

Figured Double Cloth = Two-layer construction + controlled figured effect

Construction of Figured Double Cloth

The construction can be understood by considering the four main yarn systems.

Face Layer

The face layer is formed from the face warp and face weft.

Back Layer

The back layer is formed from the back warp and back weft.

Binding

Selected binding points are introduced where necessary to hold the two layers together.

Figure Formation

The design determines where the face or back layer becomes visually dominant.

The final appearance therefore depends on the relationship between:

Draft + Lifting Plan + Binding Plan + Layer Exchange + Weave Structure

Role of Draft in DC4

Drafting is extremely important in double-cloth weaving.

The warp ends must be distributed among the available shafts in a planned sequence.

The draft must accommodate:

Face warp
Back warp
Required binding
Figure formation
Shed requirements

An incorrect draft can cause:

Incorrect figure
Improper shedding
Layer mixing
Excessive floats
Fabric defects

Lifting Plan in Figured Double Cloth

The lifting plan specifies which shafts are raised for each pick.

In a figured double cloth, the lifting plan becomes more complicated because the loom has to control the two cloth layers and the required figured effect.

A simplified concept is:

Pick 1 → Required face/back shaft combination

Pick 2 → Different shaft combination

Pick 3 → Different combination

Repeat according to design

The exact lifting plan depends on the selected construction.

Design Preparation for DC4

The general design-development process is:

Step 1: Prepare the Motif

Create the desired figured motif.

Step 2: Decide the Repeat

Determine the width and height of the design repeat.

Step 3: Prepare the Design Graph

Transfer the design to graph paper or textile-design software.

Step 4: Allocate the Two Layers

Determine which areas belong visually to the face layer and which areas should reveal the back layer.

Step 5: Prepare the Draft

Distribute the warp ends among the required shafts.

Step 6: Prepare the Lifting Plan

Determine the shaft movement for each pick.

Step 7: Prepare Binding

Select suitable binding points so that the two layers remain structurally stable.

Step 8: Check Floats

Check warp and weft floats and modify the construction if required.

Step 9: Prepare Loom Setting

Set the warp, shafts, reed, tension, and other loom parameters.

Step 10: Trial Weaving

Produce a small sample and check the design and construction.

Jacquard in Figured Double Cloth

Jacquard is particularly useful when the figured double cloth contains complex motifs.

The Jacquard system provides detailed control over warp selection and can help produce:

Large motifs
Intricate patterns
Repeated figures
Decorative borders
Reversible figured effects
Complex layer exchanges

However, not every double cloth requires Jacquard. The required shedding mechanism depends on the complexity of the design and the loom construction.

Weaving Process of Figured Double Cloth

The general weaving sequence is:

1. Warp Preparation

Prepare and divide the warp systems according to the construction.

2. Loom Dressing

Place the warp on the loom and connect the required shafts and harness.

3. Drafting

Draw the warp ends through the healds according to the selected draft.

4. Denting

Pass the warp ends through the reed according to the required denting plan.

5. Tension Setting

Apply suitable and uniform warp tension.

6. Shed Formation

The required shafts are raised according to the lifting plan.

7. First Weft Insertion

The appropriate weft is inserted into the required layer.

8. Beat-up

The reed pushes the inserted weft into position.

9. Layer Formation

The two warp and weft systems continue forming their respective layers.

10. Figure Formation

The programmed lifting and binding sequence creates the required figured effect.

11. Repetition

The complete process is repeated according to the design repeat.

Important Factors in DC4 Weaving

1. Warp Density

The warp density affects the appearance and compactness of the fabric.

2. Weft Density

The picks per unit length influence the design and fabric cover.

3. Yarn Count

Appropriate yarn counts should be selected for the required fabric weight and appearance.

4. Warp Tension

Uniform tension is important for stable shedding and even fabric formation.

5. Layer Balance

The two layers should be properly balanced according to the construction.

6. Binding Points

Incorrect binding may cause layer separation or unwanted marks.

7. Float Length

Long floats can create weakness, snagging, or poor appearance.

8. Loom Setting

Incorrect loom settings can distort the figure.

Advantages of Figured Double Cloth

Figured double cloth offers several advantages:

Produces attractive decorative effects.
Allows two-layer fabric construction.
Can produce heavier fabrics.
Provides opportunities for reversible effects.
Allows different colours to be used in different layers.
Can produce complex surface effects.
Offers greater design possibilities than ordinary single cloth.
Can be combined with Jacquard for complex designs.
Suitable for decorative and furnishing fabrics.
Can provide additional warmth and body where required.

Limitations of Figured Double Cloth

Some limitations include:

More complicated design preparation.
Higher yarn consumption.
More complicated loom setting.
Greater difficulty in maintaining correct warp tension.
Incorrect binding can cause structural problems.
More difficult than ordinary single-cloth weaving.
Requires good knowledge of drafting and lifting plans.
Complex designs may require Jacquard or advanced shedding control.

Common Defects in Figured Double Cloth

Applications of Figured Double Cloth

Figured double cloth can be used for:

Decorative fabrics
Furnishing fabrics
Heavy handloom fabrics
Reversible fabrics
Blankets
Upholstery
Home textiles
Shawls
Stoles
Sarees
Jackets
Fashion fabrics
Specialty textiles

The exact application depends on yarn type, fabric weight, structure, and design.

DC4 and Reversible Fabrics

One important advantage of double-cloth construction is the possibility of creating fabrics with attractive effects on both sides.

By selecting suitable yarn colours and layer arrangements, the fabric may show:

Different colours on each side
Reversed motifs
Contrasting figures
Decorative double-sided effects

This makes double cloth particularly useful for fabrics where appearance on both sides is important.

DC4 vs Figured Single Cloth

Feature	Figured Single Cloth	Figured Double Cloth
Number of layers	One	Two
Warp systems	Generally one	Two
Weft systems	Generally one	Two
Construction	Comparatively simpler	More complex
Fabric thickness	Usually lower	Can be higher
Design possibilities	High	Very high
Binding complexity	Lower	Higher
Yarn consumption	Lower	Higher

DC4 vs DC2

DC2 and DC4 are classifications used in double-cloth design studies, but terminology and construction notation can vary among textbooks and institutions.

For examination or practical work, always follow the specific construction notation and design method taught by your institute or textbook.

The most important principles remain:

Two warp systems
Two weft systems
Two cloth layers
Planned binding
Controlled layer relationship
Correct draft
Correct lifting plan

Important Points for Textile Students

Students should remember the following points:

Double cloth contains two layers.
It normally uses two warp systems and two weft systems.
Face warp and back warp form the two warp systems.
Face weft and back weft form the two weft systems.
Binding is used to maintain the required relationship between layers.
Drafting is important for correct shaft arrangement.
The lifting plan controls shaft movement.
Jacquard may be used for complex figured effects.
Warp tension must be properly controlled.
Excessive floats should be avoided.
Trial weaving is useful before bulk production.
DC4 should be studied together with other figured and double-cloth constructions.

Short Examination Questions

1. What is double cloth?

Double cloth is a woven fabric consisting of two fabric layers produced simultaneously using two warp and two weft systems.

2. What is figured double cloth?

Figured double cloth is a two-layer woven construction in which controlled structural or layer changes create a predetermined figured design.

3. Name the four main yarn systems in double cloth.

Face warp
Back warp
Face weft
Back weft

4. What is the function of binding in double cloth?

Binding helps connect or stabilize the two fabric layers at selected points.

5. What is the role of drafting?

Drafting determines the order in which warp ends are distributed through the heald shafts.

6. What is the function of the lifting plan?

It determines which shafts are raised for each pick.

7. Why is Jacquard useful in figured double cloth?

Jacquard provides detailed warp control and can therefore be used for complex figured designs.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is DC4 in weaving?

DC4 refers to a classification/design notation used in double-cloth studies. Because notation can vary between educational systems, the actual construction plan should be checked with the relevant textbook or institutional method.

How many layers are present in double cloth?

Double cloth has two fabric layers.

How many warp systems are generally used?

Two warp systems are generally used: face warp and back warp.

How many weft systems are generally used?

Two weft systems are generally used: face weft and back weft.

Can Jacquard be used for figured double cloth?

Yes. Jacquard can be used when detailed or complex warp control is required.

What is the main advantage of figured double cloth?

It provides greater opportunities for producing decorative, structural, reversible, and multi-layered fabric effects.

Is figured double cloth difficult to weave?

It is more complicated than ordinary single cloth because it requires careful control of two layers, multiple yarn systems, drafting, lifting, and binding.

Conclusion

Figured Double Cloth (DC4) is an important advanced weaving construction that combines two-layer fabric formation with controlled figured effects.

A proper understanding of face warp, back warp, face weft, back weft, drafting, lifting plans, binding, layer exchange, and shedding is essential for successful construction.

The technique provides valuable opportunities for producing decorative, reversible, textured, heavy, and figured fabrics. When complex motifs are required, Jacquard control can further increase the design possibilities.

For textile students and handloom professionals, DC4 should be studied as part of the broader family of figured cloth and double-cloth constructions.

Dobby in Handloom Weaving
Jacquard Machine: Introduction, Parts and Their Functions
Jacquard Weaving
Jala Technique in Handloom Weaving
Figured Single Cloth
Figured Double Cloth (DC2)
Extra Warp Design
Parts of Handloom
Types of Handloom
Different Types of Weaving Techniques