Odisha Sambalpuri Ikat saree background | History of Odisha Ikat technique |

Odisha Sambalpuri Ikat saree | History of Odisha Ikat technique |

ODISHA SINGLE IKAT SAREE |

The tie & Dye process, worldwide known as Ikat is perhaps one of the oldest techniques which have wide acceptance to date in the textile industry to ornament the fabric. Tie & Dye (Ikat) is nothing but tying of yarn or cloth and dyeing. The Ikat style is produced on the basis of the resist dyeing process of yarn. The Tie and Dye technique of weaving textile is known as 'Bandha' in Odisa. Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur, Barpali and other adjoining villages in Western Odisha. Creation from famous posts, decoration of the walls of the houses by women on ceremonial occasions (Jhoti' and 'Cheeta') and enchanting landscapes of Odisha. Moreover, Gitagovinda Khandua, Silk calligraphy Ikat fabrics, offered to Lord Jagannath, Puri has shown the high skill in the technique. The material used: 2/80s &2/120s mercerized cotton in warp & weft. Extra warp in body & extra weft in anchal is used. Also, 20/22D (2 ply or 3 ply) in the warp, 20/22 D (3 ply or 4 ply) in weft single Ikat silk sarees are being produced in different parts of Odisha.

The technique applied: It is necessary to understand the Bandha technique. Warp or weft threads or both are pre-tied and dyed, Motifs are pre-designed on the thread before they are placed in the loom for weaving. In Bandhas, tie and dye design and decoration is inbuilt and the colour Scheme has been pre-decided. At the time of weaving, the Artist gives visibility to the design and Colour. The most distinguishing feature of Bandhas is that both the Face and Back of the Cloth have the same Design and Colour. Production area: Weaver's of Bargarh district are famous for producing this saree which is about 350 KMs from Bhubaneswar. Apart from Bargarh district weavers from Subaranpur district about 300 KMs from Bhubaneswar, Bolangir district about 400 KMs Bhubaneswar, Boudh district 250 KMs from Bhubaneswar, Nuapatna & Maniabandha area of Cuttack district about 75-80 KMs from Bhubaneswar are engaged in the production of the saree. How to distinguish: Technically Odisha Ikat is different from the products of Andhra Pradesh and Patola fabric of Gujrat due to its yarn grouping systems. Generally in Odisha, the weavers prepare grouping of yarn with 2 picks/ repeat, 3pick/ repeat or maximum 4 picks/ repeat wherein Patola or Pochampalli Designs are made out of 8 picks/repeat, that is why we found a geometrical pattern in Pochampalli or Patan Potla unlike Odisha Ikat here we find a continuous floral pattern/ also shaded effects are seen in Odisha products which are unique in Ikat products. Ikat techniques is different from Bandhani Le. in Bandhani techniques cloth is tied and dyed whereas in Ikat yarn is tied and dyed and then prepared yarn is woven in fabrics.

COTTON DRES'S MATERIAL (ODISHA IKAT)

Background |

Ikat cotton dress materials are produced for most ladies and some Ikat dress materials for gents. Generally, weft ikat is used in garments. Material Used: 2/100s to 2/120s mercerized cotton in warp and weft. Production area: Bargarh district 350 km from Bhubaneswar, Boudh district 250 km from Bhubaneswar, Nuapatna, Maniahandh area in Cuttack district about 75 to 80 km from the state capital. A technique used: Single ikat technique is applied [either warp Ikat or weft ikat). How to distinguish: Technically Odlishalkat is different from the products of Andhra Pradesh and Patola fabric of Gujrat due to its yarn grouping systems. Generally in Odisha, the weavers prepare grouping of yarn with 2 picks/ repeat, 3pick/ repeat or maximum 4 picks/ repeat wherein Patola or Pochampalli Designs are made out of 8 picks/repeat, that is why we found a geometrical pattern in Pochampalli or Patanpotla unlike Odishallkat here we find a continuous floral pattern. Also, shaded effects are seen in Odisha products which are unique in Ikat products.

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