Jamdani saree Background and its origin | Technique applied on Jamdani Saree |
Jamdani Cotton Sari origin and Background
It is believed that the word 'Jamdani' is derived from the Persian word 'Jama' meaning cloth and 'Dana' meaning Buti or diapering. Jamdani weaving flourished under Mughal Emperors who appreciated the excellence of this Jamdani weaving. Jamdani is a fine cloth figured with geometric or floral designs. Due to this superfine cloth, handloom weaving had become a fine art in the 15th and 16th centuries. Later in the 17th century, this Jamdani fabric was also used for dresses. Presently, Jamdani fabrics are produced in weavers concentrated areas of Burdwan, Nadia districts in West Bengal on frame looms. The material used Traditional jamdani fabrics are produced using 100s,120s and above count of cotton yarns for warp and weft while 4 to 6 ply cotton yarn is used for extra weft either in white or dyed. Later they started using Zari also. Nowadays jamdani sarees and dress materials are woven with cotton yarn of count ranges from the 60s to 100, using steel reeds of 68 -72s count.
Weaving Technique:-
Jamdani is a weaving technique of figured cotton textiles, in the transparent plain ground, with designs of the extra weft. Design motifs are directly woven by weavers from their memory without the help of any design device. They adapted a traditional and indigenous technique that involves 'throw shuttle' (presently fly shuttle is used) and extra weft insertion by Needle. Jamdani motifs are known by different names viz. 'Panna, 'Hajar', 'Dubli', Jal', 'Butidar', 'Tersa', 'Charkona' Fulwar', 'Duria',Belwari' etc. depending upon the arrangements. Motifs of Jamdani fabrics are mainly of geometrical and floral concepts adopted from a local environment like flowers, leaves, mango, zig-zag lines etc. Also, it covers 'Hazar Buti (One thousand), Tagar Phul, Bokul Phul, Dorakata, Mala etc. The special design pattern of a paisley motif in the corners of the pallor portion, locally known as Konia' is produced by skilled Jamdani weavers. How to distinguish genuine Jamdani Saree and
fabrics can easily be distinguished by seeing the extra weft which is usually inserted in the ratio of two ground thread and one design thread. The bulging effect is seen in the design portions of the fabric since the design thread is coarser than ground thread. The extra un-cut weft is interlaced with warp threads to form the design from left to right and vice versa in such a way that it cannot be pulled off. The turning of the design thread from left to right and vice versa is clearly seen in the backside of the fabric.
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