How do contribute to keeping the tradition of Banarasi silk sarees? |
Banarasi Saree or Benarasi Saree are considered to be one of the finest clothing and handloom product to emerge out of India. They have been a part of the Indian culture for centuries and have been loved by women worldwide. Banarasi is called the "holy" city of India. The holy city Varanasi is famous for the Brocade Sari and Brocade weaves in India. As we all must know that the wedding sari in India is also known as the Benarasi Sari. So in this article, we discuss what is Brocade Saree and How to make it, How much cost of that product etc.
Banarasi Silk Saree
Banaras Brocade Saree History / Background :
During the Mughal period around 14th century, the weaving of Banarasi brocades with intricate designs using gold and silver threads became the speciality of Banaras. The Banaras Brocade sarees are made of finely woven silk and decorated with an intricate design using Jari and because of these ornamentations, it is relatively heavy. Their special characteristics are Mughal inspired designs/elements such as intricate floral and foliate motifs "Kalga and Bel". Other features are gold work, compact weaving. figures with small details, metallic visual effects, Jal (a net like pattern) and Meena work.
Historians have traced back the oldest version of this fabric in India to the Rig Veda Period (1750 – 500 B.C.E).
The material used:
Twofold twisted mulberry silk yarn, locally called "Katan" is used in both ground warp & weft with gold and/or silver zari for designing.
Techniques applied:
Banarasi brocade Fabric or sarees and woven on conventional Banaras handloom jacquard and sometimes with Jala, Pagia & Naka attachment for creation of motif. For the weaving of the ground fabric, 5 to 8 heald shafts are used for ground fabric and designs are woven in a weft of different materials and colours. Satin weave is used in the ground fabric. However, techniques similar to brocade experimented within the Indian subcontinent and while the results were not as distinct as brocade itself.
How to distinguish Banaras Brocade:
1.The Banaras brocade fabric made of Silk and Jari are heavily designed with intricate floral and/ or spotted motifs.
2. The satin weave used in the base fabric.
3. Metallic visual effects prominently appear in the fabric.
4. Floats of wefts are not found on the face or on the backside of the fabric.
5. It has heavyweight due to the use of metallic yarn and compound texture.
Brocade Design-
The term Brocade may be applied to Jacquard figured fabric, which shows a variety of shaded effects. But more particularly it 'refers to the lighter and medium textures of silk cotton, linen or worsted, embellished by elaborate Jacquard figuring, usually upon a Plain or Tabby ground. Designs of almost any style, even up to a Human Portrait, may be developed in Brocade fabric. Unless the cloth is of very fine texture and of good quality, any minute detail of the pattern would be lost of, also the Design should not consist of heavy masses of the figure, but the various elements composing it should be disposed evenly over the whole surface. This is not merely to obtain any artistic effect; but with a view to causing all warp threads to bear an equal strain, The ground as remarked before is generally Plain, but for softness or appearance and for special purposes, any small weave as twill, Satin, Rib, Mock leno, Diamond, Honeycomb, Matt, Rib, Crock Screw etc can be used.
Brocade Design Front snd back view | Photo By. P. Meher
* Can you identify the front and back portion of the fabric of the above picture?
* Please, Comment in the comment box section by writing example Up-Front, and Down-Back
Present Day Scenario of Banarasi Brocade :
Recognizing the vast popularity of Silk Brocade Fabric and Sarees from Banaras in India and throughout the country as well as in Globe, Varanasi (or Benaras) was included in the Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (IHCDS) in 2006 for further development of this fabric by the O/o Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Govt. of India, Ministry Of Textiles with the implementation of Weavers' Service Centre, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.
Difference Between Damask & Brocade. In Brocade Fabrics variety of different binding-weaves, referring to light and medium textures may be employed both in figure and ground portions of the fabric and also warp and weft may exchange places in any desired manner; whereas in Damask Fabric a simple Satin or Twill Weave is only employed both for figure and ground: In this case, if warp-satin is in the figure, weft-satin will invariably be in the ground or vice -versa.
The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |
The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.
1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.
2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.
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