Banarasi brocade Fabric | The holyweave in India | Banarasi brocade fabric in India |

Banarasi brocade Fabric | The holy weave in India | Banarasi brocade fabric in India |

              

Vanarasi Brocade

               The city of Siva and the millions of Lingams had flowing throughout the Holy Ganga forgiver of a seems and the final resting in place for believer. There is a Varanasi, the city of craft people of weavers over centuries to provided rich brocade to the Manas of the world. And continue today weaving heavy textiles frauded with gold that cloth ware many brides. While in early Vedic literature exists to brocade like textile been producing in this region and travellers account to mention the trade-in them definitely documentation only points to Varanasi has become the centre of broadloom produced brocade since the 19 centuries.

 

The process began with the un degummed yarn weave to prepare with the standard section should loom work, this has degummed and dyed. Chemical dyes have now used to dye the yarn. The preparation of the warp is done out of the loom on the street or in a field using the Pool warping process. Yarn is sized with rice water, sometimes the warping is before the sizing and sometimes reverse. These sets are put through the warp.

    The next step is to make the Naksha or Jala. The function of Naksha is the same as in the Jacquard arrangement by which warp threads, can be lifted for creating patterns and weaves. The arrangement of warp passing each in the warp threads of the repeat of a design through a loom then connecting to the loom for lifting the threads and arranging these lifting each loop of warp threads independently to complete a design and repeat.

 

            The Brocade loom is a door pit loom and is operated by the weavers and helpers to lift the Jala for the patterning. The pattern harness with drawloom consists of the back, and the horizontal row cords for “Pagia”. Weft threads, the Naksha is attached to on directly about the “Pagia”. Lifting select Naksha threads thus lift select “Pagia” cords and thereby select group of warp ends through the “Naka” cord which is attached directly with the warp threads of the pattern.

 

          Zari, gold threads are bound also Sar or polish Bamboo or Plastic pools. Usually pointed the door ends called as “Tillis”. These are also used for extra weft threads in fine work called Minakari woven, face The fabric is down.

 

          In the weaving technique called Fekuaa, the weft shuttle is fully operated across the border but appears on the surface only in the space required by the pattern. This weave is seen on the Mirror of the reverse side and the alternative is called the “Katarwa” or “Cut work” by the Extra weft threads running of the reverse side between the Two motifs is cut a way to reverse meet. This method is cheaper and quicker and more commonly used today.  The jacquard machine has in adopted in Varanasi to the special need of the brocade and the Jacquard machine have almost entirely replaced the Jala Naksha system, saving on both labour and cutting cost. Varanasi brocade has been coming several times the King Khab literal small beads are the heavy fabric of several layers of warp threads and all-over patterns of extra weft in Zari or Silk. The very heavy King Khab used for the peninsula in history lite a lot of Varanasi garments.

 

       The “Gysar” fabric is exclusively made for the Buddhists resists markets and now for growing for shine were placed in Nepal, Tibetan and Bhutan. The up par wan and the silk closes with the Persian designs of gold and silver threads. The craze of hind tone has maybe need to increasingly popular. With hundreds of motifs, different stripes and squares are used in Varanasi with in the “Mango” motif and “Kalga” which is known most representing. Hundreds and thousands of weavers have to change their profession, various intervention by designers and opening of the new market by essential to save the fabulous weaves. 

Banarasi Saree or Benarasi Saree are considered to be one of the finest clothing and handloom product to emerge out of India. They have been a part of the Indian culture for centuries and have been loved by women worldwide. Banarasi is called the "holy" city of India. The holy city Varanasi is famous for the Brocade Sari and Brocade weaves in India. As we all must know that the wedding sari in India is also known as the Benarasi Sari. So in this article, we discuss what is Brocade Saree and How to make it, How much cost of that product etc.

Banaras Brocade Saree History /  Background : 

            During the Mughal period around 14th century, the weaving of Banarasi brocades with intricate designs using gold and silver threads became the speciality of Banaras. The Banaras Brocade sarees are made of finely woven silk and decorated with an intricate design using Jari and because of these ornamentations, it is relatively heavy. Their special characteristics are Mughal inspired designs/elements such as intricate floral and foliate motifs "Kalga and Bel". Other features are gold work, compact weaving. figures with small details, metallic visual effects, Jal (a net like pattern) and Meena work. 

 Historians have traced back the oldest version of this fabric in India to the Rig Veda Period (1750 – 500 B.C.E).

The material used: 

              Twofold twisted mulberry silk yarn, locally called "Katan" is used in both ground warp & weft with gold and/or silver zari for designing. 

Techniques applied: 

            Banarasi brocade Fabric or sarees and woven on conventional Banaras handloom jacquard and sometimes with Jala, Pagia & Naka attachment for creation of motif. For the weaving of the ground fabric, 5 to 8 heald shafts are used for ground fabric and designs are woven in a weft of different materials and colours. Satin weave is used in the ground fabric. However, techniques similar to brocade experimented within the Indian subcontinent and while the results were not as distinct as brocade itself.

 How to distinguish Banaras Brocade: 

1.The Banaras brocade fabric made of Silk and Jari are heavily designed with intricate floral and/ or spotted motifs.

2. The satin weave used in the base fabric.

3. Metallic visual effects prominently appear in the fabric. 

4. Floats of wefts are not found on the face or on the backside of the fabric.

5. It has heavyweight due to the use of metallic yarn and compound texture.

Brocade Design-

                   The term Brocade may be applied to Jacquard figured fabric, which shows a variety of shaded effects. But more particularly it 'refers to the lighter and medium textures of silk cotton, linen or worsted, embellished by elaborate Jacquard figuring, usually upon a Plain or Tabby ground. Designs of almost any style, even up to a Human Portrait, may be developed in Brocade fabric. Unless the cloth is of very fine texture and of good quality, any minute detail of the pattern would be lost of, also the Design should not consist of heavy masses of the figure, but the various elements composing it should be disposed evenly over the whole surface. This is not merely to obtain any artistic effect; but with a view to causing all warp threads to bear an equal strain, The ground as remarked before is generally Plain, but for softness or appearance and for special purposes, any small weave as twill, Satin, Rib, Mock leno, Diamond, Honeycomb, Matt, Rib, Crock Screw etc can be used.

Brocade Design Front snd back view | Photo By. P. Meher

                                                 

                        * Can you identify the front and back portion of the fabric of the above picture?

                   * Please, Comment in the comment box section by writing example Up-Front, and Down-Back

Present Day Scenario of Banarasi Brocade :

            Recognizing the vast popularity of Silk Brocade Fabric and Sarees from Banaras in India and throughout the country as well as in Globe, Varanasi (or Benaras) was included in the Integrated Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (IHCDS) in 2006 for further development of this fabric by the O/o Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Govt. of India, Ministry Of Textiles with the implementation of Weavers' Service Centre, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.

                    Difference Between Damask & Brocade. In Brocade Fabrics variety of different binding-weaves, referring to light and medium textures may be employed both in figure and ground portions of the fabric and also warp and weft may exchange places in any desired manner; whereas in Damask Fabric a simple Satin or Twill Weave is only employed both for figure and ground: In this case, if warp-satin is in the figure, weft-satin will invariably be in the ground or vice -versa.

The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |

The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.

1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.

2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.

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