Yarn counting system | Yarn numbering system |
What is yarn count?
Ans- Count is a numerical expression, which defines its fineness or coarseness of yarn.
According to the textile institute " count is number indicating the mass per unit length" & Length per unit mass".
What types of yarn numbering system?
Ans- There are two basic types-
1- Direct System (Mass per unit Length)
2- Indirect System (Length per unit Mass).
What is the Cotton count?
Ans- It is defined as the length of a number of hanks of 840 yards per pound of yarn.
What is 30 Ne?
It is defined as the 30 numbers of hanks of 840 yards (840 yards x 30 hanks) of length per pound.
Counting system
What is a counting system?
A counting system is a method to express the yarn fineness and thickness.
DIRECT
SYSTEM
In
this system count indicates the Mass per unit length.
Name
of the System |
Weight
Unit |
Length
Unit |
Denier (D) |
1 Gram |
9,000 meters |
Tex (Tex) |
1 Gram |
1,000 meters |
D tex |
1 Gram |
10,000 meters |
Jute, Hemp |
1 Pound |
14,400 yards |
In this system higher will be the count Coarser will be the yarn.
Formula= W x l
L x w
Stand For-
W= Actual weight of yarn.
l= Unit length of yarn.
L= actual length of yarn.
w= Unit weight of yarn.
INDIRECT
SYSTEM
In
this system count indicates the length per unit mass (weight).
Name
of the System |
Weight
Unit |
Length
Unit |
Cotton English System (Ne) |
1 Pound |
Hank of 840 yards |
Cotton Matric |
1 K.G. |
Hanks of 1000 Meters |
French Count (Nf) |
1.5 K.g. |
Hanks of 1000 Meters |
Worsted |
1 Pound |
Hanks of 560 yards |
Linen |
1 Pound |
Hanks of 300 yards |
In
this system higher will be the count finer will be the yarn.
Formula= L x w
W x l
Stand For-
L= actual length of yarn.
w= Unit weight of yarn.
W= Actual weight of yarn.
l= Unit length of yarn.
Diameter of yarn:
Value table:
Direct
System
Name
of Fibre |
Value(F) |
Reduction |
Unit
Length(l) |
Unit
Weight(w) |
Denier |
20.36
% |
0
% |
9000
Meters |
1
Gram |
Tex |
678.6
% |
0
% |
1000
Meters |
1
Gram |
Flex,
Hemp |
115.6
% |
15
% |
14,400
Yard |
1
Pound |
Raime,
Jute |
115.6
% |
15
% |
14,400
Yard |
1
Pound |
Indirect system
Name of Fibre | Value(F) | Reduction | Unit Length(l) | Unit Weight(w) |
English Cotton (Ne) | 28 | 8 % | 840 Yard | 1Pound |
Worsted | 22.8 | 10 % | 560 Yard | 1 Pound |
Linen | 16.7 | 8 % | 300 Meter | 1 Pound |
Woolen York Shear (WYS) | 15.4 | 15 % | 256 Yard | 1 Pound |
New French | 0 | 0 | 1000 Meter | 500 gram |
Span Silk | 0 | 8 % | - | - |
New Matric (Nm) |
|
| 1000 Meters | 1 Kg |
There are two systems of the diameter of the yarn.
1. Pirces formula.
2. Ashenhurts formula.
Calculate the diameter of yarn in a Direct system:
1. Pirces formula.
2. Ashenhurts formula.
Calculate the diameter of yarn in an Indirect system:
1. Pirces formula.
Diameter= 1/ F Uunder root N
F= Value of the yarn.
N= Count of yarn
2. Ashenhurts formula.
Diameter= Under root Yards/ L.bs- reduction
Yard= Unit length of yarn.
L.bs= Count of yarn.
Method to calculate the actual weight of Warp required: Please stay with @@mehersambalpurihandlooms.
Conversation
Factor of Yarn
There
are Three types of Yarn counting system:
1.
Indirect System
2.
Direct System
3. Universal
System
Conversation The factor of Yarn:
1. Indirect
to Indirect System- CK/CF
2. Direct
to Direct System- CK/CF
3. Indirect to Direct System- CK x CF
4. Direct
to Indirect System- CK x CF
Note: CK= Count Known,
CF= Count Found
1) Example
of Indirect-to-Indirect System
Q=
New English Cotton (NeC) to New English Worsted (NeW)
Formula
– CK/CF
So,
CK is NeC and CF is NeW
Count
NeC formula is = Length in Yard
840 x Wt. In Lbs
Count
NeW formula = Length in Yard
560 x Wt. in Lbs
So,
formula is CK/CF= = Length in Yard /
Length in Yard
560 x Wt. in Lbs 840 x Wt. In Lbs
In mathematical Formula= Length in Yard X
840 x Wt. In Lbs
560 x Wt. in Lbs Length in Yard
=560/840=0.6667
So,
whereas we find NeC=0.6667 X NeW
So,
whereas we find NeW=1.5 X NeC
2) Example of Direct-to-Direct System
Q=
Tex (Tex) to Denier (Dr)
Formula
– CK/CF
So,
CK is Tex and CF is Denier
Count
Tex formula is = Weight in Grams X 1000
Length in Metre
Count
Denier formula = Weight in Gram X
9000
Length in Metre
So,
formula is CK/CF= = Weight in Grams
X 1000 / Weight in Gram X 9000
Length in Metre Length in Metre
In mathematical Formula= Length in Yard X
840 x Wt. In-Lbs
560 x Wt. in Lbs Length in Yard
=1000/9000=1/9
So, whereas we find Tex=Deniar/9
So,
whereas we find Deniar=Tex x 9
3) Example of Indirect-to-Direct System
Q= New English Cotton (NeC) to Tex (Tex)
Formula – CK x CF
So, CK is Tex and CF is Deniar
Count NeC formula is = Length in
Yard
840 x Wt. In Lbs
Count Deniar formula = Weight in
Grams X 1000
Length in Metre
So, formula is CK x CF= = Length in Yard X
Weight in Grams X 1000
Length in Metre 840 x Wt. In Lbs
So, here we can change the CK as the
same to CF so, here we can easily divide.
In mathematical Formula= Length in Metre x 453.6gms X Weight in Grams X 1000
840 x Wt.in Gram x 0.9144 metre Length in Metre
= 453.6 x 1000 = 590.5
840 x 0.9144
So, whereas we find NeC=590.5 / Tex
So, whereas we find Tex= 590.5 / Ne
4) Example of Direct-to-Indirect System
Q=
Denier (Dr) to New English Worsted (NeW)
Formula
– CK x CF
So,
CK is Denier and CF is New English Worsted (NeW)
Count
Denier formula is = Weight in Gram X
9000
Length in Metre
Count
Denier formula = Length in Yard
560 x Wt. in Lbs
So,
formula is CK x CF= = Weight in
Gram X 9000 X Length
in Yard
Length in Metre 560 x Wt. in Lbs
So,
here we can change the CK as the same to CF so, here we can easily divide.
In mathematical Formula= Wt. in Lbs x 9000
x 453.6gms X Length in Yard
Length in Yard x 0.9144 560 x Wt. in Lbs
=
9000 x 453.6 = 7972
0.9144 x 560
So, whereas we find NeW= 7972 / Denier
So, whereas we find Deniar= 7972 / NeW
We
can convert to of 1s New English Cotton into different System
shown table below:
Measurement Value
Unit
Tex 590.54 Gram / Kilometre
Deniar 5314.87 Grams / 9000 Metres
Desi
Tex 5905.41 Grams / 10,000 Metres
Linen,
Hemp, Jute 17.14 Lbs / 14,400 Yards
Cotton
English 1.0000 840Yards / Lbs
Metric 1.6934 Kilometre / Kg
Spun
Silk 1.0000 840 Yards / Lbs
WYS 3.2812 256 Yards / Lbs
Wollen
Worsted 1.5000 560 Yards / Lbs
Ply
or Twist of Yarn
Number
of Twist yarn Twisted together to form plied yarn is known as a ply of Yarn. Yarn
may be double, triple or four plied. Generally, we used plied yarn in Warp and
Weft but, sometimes single-ply yarn may be used in weft due to lesser cost.
Difference
between by the yarn 2/60s and 60/2s Count of Cotton yarn?
Ans-
2/60s=
2 threads of 60s single yarn twisted together.
3/60s=
3 Threads of 60s single yarn twisted together.
60/2s=
2 Threads of 120s single yarn are twisted together.
60/3s=
3 Threads of 120s single yarn are twisted together.
Folded
Yarn
It
is not twisted but two (2) or more threads remain together untwisted.
30s
Two-fold= 2 threads of 30s remain together untwisted.
30s
10-fold = 10 Threads of 30s remain untwisted.
*Note-
when Cotton is written 24/40, means 24s count cotton and 40s count cotton are
together untwisted.
Twist
Number
of turns per unit length of yarn is called twist. The yarn may be twisted in
Two directions:
1.
“S” Twist- If the yarn is twisted in Clock
wise direction, then it is called ‘S’ twist yarn.
2. “Z”
Twist- If the yarn is twisted in Anti-Clock wise direction, then it is called ‘Z’
twist yarn.
Cotton
Count
If
the 10 Hank of Cotton Yarn (Each of 840 Yards) weight in One pound, then it is
called the 10s Cotton.
Example:
1. 1
hank of 840 Yard length having in One pound, then it is called the 1s
Cotton.
2. 2
Hank of 840 Yards length is in One pound then it is called 2s
Cotton.
Q. Find out the resultant count of yarn
20s, 30s, and 60s when twisted together?
Ans:-
20s
1 Hank = 1/20 Pound
30s
1 Hank = 1/30 Pound
60s
1 Hank = 1/60 pound
Above
3 types twisted together=
1 +
1 +
1
20
30 60
= 6 +
4 + 2
120
=
12
= 1
10
So
1/10 means 10s Count
Ans
is 10s Count.
OR
In
Other Formula: -
Q. Find out the resultant count of yarn The 20s, 30s, and 60s when twisted together?
Ans:-
Formula=
First multiple Two counts together then
Multiple
the result count in the rest count.
Example:-
20s
1 Hank = 1/20 Pound
30s
1 Hank = 1/30 Pound
60s
1 Hank = 1/60 pound
Ans=
20s x 30s
20s + 30s
=
600
50
=12
Next the step is multiple the result in rest count=
Result
12 x 60s
12 + 60
=
720
72
=10s
So,
final result is 10s Count.
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