present scenario of handloom industry in Odisha:
Introduction:
The present scenario of the handloom industry in Odisha is not much better than before. Handloom is the second employment generation after agriculture. Odisha is an agricultural-based economy. According to the 4 th of all India Handloom Census, there are 1,17,836 handloom weavers and allied worker in Odisha. Odisha had a rural unemployment rate of 8.71 % as per the unemployment 2011-12. There are two largest Aliminium Plants in Odisha one is NALCO & Vedanta.
The present scenario in Handloom and Textiles:
Handloom and Textiles in Odisha have very poor condition and they urgently need to develop. The present scenario can be summarised below:
1. There are many Handloom co-operative societies and power loom unit including 10 nos of textiles spinning mills are closed.
2. Unfortunately, the Handloom sector is very sick due to the lack of Govt. and Covid-19
3. The textile in Odisha produces a very high quality of Cotton fibre and produce a very high quantity of Tassar also, till that the govt of Odisha never take to a very strong step.
The present scenario in Handloom:
The handloom sector next to agriculture provides massive employment into the rural sector/Handlooms. In handloom the weaver not just weave the cloth it’s a life for a commercial venture to provide the cloth for the human body as well as the fashion industry. The Ikat technique comes forward to Odisha from Rajasthan. The Handloom industries are the largest cottage industry in Odisha. But when the day was going on the Handloom sector face more challenges. At present, since the 2020 Covid-19 has arrived, handloom is severally affected to the weavers.
The brand Name of Odisha Ikat Saree:
1. Sambalpuri Saree
2. Pasapalli Saree
3. Bichitrapuri Saree
4. Bomkai Saree
5. Bapta Saree
6. Berhampuri Saree
7. Khandwa Saree
8. Maniabandha Saree
9. Siminoi Saree
10. Kotpad saree
11. Gitagobinda Saree
12. Biman / Doulbedi Saree
13. Gopalpur Tassar Saree saree
14. Dongaria Saree
15. Gopalpuri Tassar Saree
16. Mayaurbhanj Saree
17. Dholapathar Saree
18. Habaspuri Saree.
The handloom saree is becoming out of the fashion. Now a days the new generation youngster to wear Jeans and Dress material, which is comfortable in day-to-day life, Because of the high price of handloom product and not too easy maintained.
The Handloom industries face many problems in Odisha as given below:
1. Lake of Technical skill
2. Unavailability of raw material
3. Lake of knowledge uses of Dyes Chemical
4. Lake of update consumer-based product
5. Unavailability of market
1.Technical Skill:
Technical skill is a factor of weaver for the outcome of a good reliable product. One of the questions in our mind is that they don’t know where they go to for Technical knowledge training. Only a few are known. In a few of them, there is no weaver. Our organization team has visited many places in Odisha, they found that there is no, any Govt scheme is implemented. But there is many Skill upgrading training was running in many areas. All the training was going to running under the Weavers’ Service Centre, Bhubaneswar with the help of the Assistant Director of textiles in their respective district.
2.Unavailability of Raw material:
Shortage of raw material according to their need is also another problem to provide a good quality of the product. In Western Odisha where there is bulk production of handloom fabric, at this area, there is no facility to nearby Infront of weaver for buying different types of yarn. Only there is Cotton available. On the ground, our team search that only a National Handloom Development Co-operation (NHDC) is available to supply raw material at a subside rate among the weaver, but there is in sick and it is so far away to weaver area. In their only have the few count of only Cotton yarn no other different types of yarn available.
3.Lake of knowledge uses of Dyes Chemical:
They are not aware of the process parameter, hence there are huge wastage of dyes & chemical, improper dye fixation, increasing expenditure. They are mostly used of branded dyestuff, but in most cases, it increasing cost without any good quality of results. There is no professionally dye house available in the market. However some places like Bargarh, Bolangir, Boudh the cluster are formed, but more updated technology is required in the field of The brand Name of Odisha Ikat Saree:
4. Lake of update consumer-based product:
The Sambalpuri Saree and Dress material, have a manageable market but the other Handloom product has to fail to draw the attention of the consumer. The weavers don't have the opportunity to upgrade those product based on the demand of the people. There is no special training programme has been organized by the Govt to upgrade the skill-based on consumer choice.
5. Unavailability of the market:
Lastly, not least another major problems in front of the weaver are the market or Local Hat which is not available nearer to the weaver. There is only a name of the big market was called 'Balijori Hatt' in Bargarh district is available for weaver all the Western part of Odisha. Due to Covid-19 it also closed till further order.
Reference some keyword from TAI, Odisha Unit seminar.
Note-To know more details of handloom knowledge please Click here
Problems faced by the handloom sector:
Sir, First of all, I would like to say that the,
1) 1) Rampant power loom production of handloom traditional product is one of the biggest problem faced by the handloom sector.
2) 2) Unskilled weaver:
3) Most of the handloom are found in a rural area so, they don’t want to change their skill from traditional to trend.
3) 4) Inadequate market facilities for selling of their finished product.
Solutions are:
1) 1) I think that we put a handloom signature on the handloom product.
2) 2) We make the product only on handloom specific. For example-Warp manipulation, weft manipulation and change the direction of the weft.
3) Many more Saree have already made handloom specific such as Jamdani, Ikkat, Bandhani, Paithani, Patola etc.
3) Use handloom product on a daily basis.
How to find out whether it is a Power loom or Handloom product:
1. A handloom, by its very nature, is being handwoven, It has a rugged uneven surface. Knots, thread pulls near the selvedge are common in a handwoven sari. If woven with the same yarns in a power loom saree will be even in texture and smooth surface without any knot.
2. Handloom sarees are woven by pinning the selvedge of the border in a saree on the loom, because of using a device named Temple. They often have pin marks or holes at an unequal distance on top or bottom of saree or near borders, known as selvedge. But in a power loom, this is not seen so, they are pinning less and smooth. So to identify a handwoven saree, look at its selvedge of the border.
3. Handloom sarees are soft in texture or maybe hard sometimes hard and more resilient whereas in a power loom saree will be stiff and hard in feel due to compact weaving. To know better, one must drape the saree and check its feel. Handloom sarees drape well.
4. Handloom sarees often have extra warp and weft threads left at the end of the Pallu or at Pallu, which can be used for making fringes. But in power loom they don't have any extra threads are seen.
5. Due to uneven and loose weaving in handlooms, which makes them more resilient and breathable, allowing air to pass through, whereas in power looms are found even compact and feeling of blockage to feel.
Advantage of Handlooms:
1. Due to uneven and loose weaving in handlooms, which makes them more resilient and breathable, allowing air to pass through. Drape easily according to them.
2. Uneven weft weaving is possible of handloom, they have easily change weft and weave according to them but in power loom, it is not possible.
One of the biggest problems faced by the handloom sector is rampant power loom production of handloom traditional products and there is no viable solution to stop the same. There is no established procedure to identify the handloom product
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