Handloom Sari | saree Terminology and Glossary | Terminology and Glossary of handloom sari | saree | Sari ki Paribhasa.
The Handloom tradition is a part of our country's rich culture, leaving footprints across the Globe. Indian Sari has some unveiled language, which is don't know about this of common people, so in this article, I will tell you some terminology & glossary of Handloom Sari /Saree.
1. Warp- warp is a longitudinal thread that is seen at the loom and fabric.
2. Weft- weft is a transverses threads that are seen at loom and fabric
3. Bandha- bandha is a term of weft tie-dye that is used in Odisha.
4. Buta- Buta is a spotted design used on the ground of fabric, it appears denser than the ground fabric and it is worked on extra weft threads (Cotton, Silk, Silver Zari & Gold Zari).
5. Tie-Dye- it is a preparatory process of weaving both the warp and weft before weaving. Mainly used in Odisha, Gujarat & Andra Pradesh.
6. Karhuwa/Kadwha- Karhuwa is a technique for preparation of any kind of Buti at fabric as well as used in many design preparation in a different state, mainly used in UP, MP, J&K, Maharastra, Tamilnadu, Kerala etc
7. Pallu/Aanchal- Pallu is a part of any kind of sari. It is attached at the starting point of weaving or ending. It is the most important part of a sari, Generally, the women wear a sari, the Pallu is placed at the shoulder.
8. Phekua- Phekua is a term of the weaving process. When the weaver weaves the cloth by means of through shuttle or flying shuttle, when they used through shuttle at the time of weaving of extra weft for design is called the Phekua technique or term.
9. Jamdani- Jamdani is a fabric name of West Bengal term woven cloth of extra weft for design onto a transparent base fabric. The name of Jamdani derived from Dhakai, Bangladesh.
10. Cheod/Patta- This is a name of a device of Handloom. Using this Cheod/Patta we create a small geometrical pattern on the Pallu of Sari or fabric according to our need-based. The power loom can't be copied from the design which is created using this Patta on the handloom, this is the speciality of this device.
11. Dhadi/Boarder- Generally all the people knew that the boarder which is a place on both side of the Sari. When the draping of a woman a Sari the design of the boarder is highlighted at the shoulder. Boarder comes with a very intricate design with Cotton, Silk Zari etc. or the main part of Sari.
12. Das Phulia- This is the name of a Dobby design of Boarder of a Srai, where the 10 nos. of the motif is placed at boarder of Sari, so that is called "Das Phuliya". And it used in Dhalapathar sari of Odisha.
13. Dobby- Dobby is a device used to figuring small geometrical patterns in Sari in the Early period. It is limited to control the warp threads. It is situated at the top of Loom. Mostly used in Odisha, West Bengal, Andra Pradesh & Tamil Nadu.
14. Jacquard- Jacquard is a device that is used to producing a large pattern on fabric. It invented by Joseph Marry Jacquard in 1801. It is situated at the top of the Loom and used for producing both Boarder & cross-Boarder design.
15. Ganga
Jamuna – means that in the sari have the two boarder
generally in the same colour, but in this two boarder are two different colours is
known Ganga Jamuna Sari.
16. Muha-
muha means Pallu, it is attached with the sari. In earlier time there are “Do
Muha sari” is very famous, means the sari having Two Muha or Pallu.
17. Blouse
piece/Choli- it is attached with the sari at the end,
it about nearly 75 to 90 cm in length, the purpose of this extra long piece
attached with it because of the Blouse is come with the colour matching the combination as like Sari.
18. Pleats
are- In a sari up to one meter after the Pallu is known
pleats area of the sari.
19. Check-
check
means that in a sari with different colour of threads are warped in a manner as
like 2/2, 4/4, 6/6 threads etc.
20. Kota
doria- This is a kind of plain weave on cloth that has to
form the check effect with the regular interval, combination of both finer and
coarser yarn.
We will continue with this glossary in our next article. Still, that to stay with @mehersambalpurihandlooms.blogspot.com
In this picture you have all the things found-
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Thank you for reading....
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