Details description of handloom parts| Part-02, hatkargha ka saman ke bare me jankari |Different weaving images with name | Parts and Accessories of handloom, Shuttle, Sley |
Date: 10.05.2021, 3.25 PM
Handloom Parts & Accessories – Part 2
Traditional handlooms are made up of many vital parts, each with its own function. Here’s an easy guide to some important components used in weaving.
1. Picking Handle:-
A wooden or cotton-made handle connected to the picker by a rope on both sides of the shuttle box. The weaver operates it to push the shuttle from one box to another.
2. Heald Shaft:-
Made of wood or steel, it holds the heald wires for even shedding of warp threads, allowing the shuttle to pass smoothly. Wooden strips at the top and bottom are called shafts.
3. Lease Rod:-
Located behind the heald, it prevents warp threads from tangling, aids in preparatory processes, and helps rejoin broken threads. Made of bamboo, wood, or steel.
4. Temple (Moti Katha):-
A wooden tool with iron pins at both ends, it keeps fabric at the correct width, preventing shrinkage and protecting selvedge threads. Roller temples are used for cotton, rubber-coated for silk/rayon, and ring temples for heavy cloth.
5. Treadle (Pedal):-
Wooden, bamboo, or iron pedals at the bottom of the loom used to open the shed by dividing warp threads into two layers. The number of treadles depends on the weave pattern.
6. Reed:-
A metallic comb fixed to the sley, guiding the shuttle and maintaining fabric density, width, and uniformity.
Types:
1. Country Reed (Bamboo)
2. English Reed (Steel/Brass)
Functions:
Pushes weft into place, aligns warp threads, guides the shuttle, and controls EPI & PPI.
7. Varnished Heald:-
Available in cotton or nylon with a “male eye” for warp passage. Coated with varnish for strength, about 12–14 cm long.
8. Wire Heald:-
Made of steel or iron, 23–28 cm long, with a male eye for warp threads. Helps in group drafting.
9. Loom Post:-
The four main pillars of the loom, supporting all other components like the warp beam, cloth beam, sley, and treadle.
Picking
handle:
Picking handle is made by wooden or it
cotton and tied to a cotton rope and the rope is connected to picker both side
of shuttle box. It is operated by the weaver for passing the shuttle one box to
other. It pusses the shuttle to go through another shuttle box.
Heald Shaft :
Heald Shaft made by Wooden or Iron/ Steel. Its main function
is to hold the heald wire or wire heald for shedding of warp threads evenly. So the shuttle may easily to pass from one shuttle box to another
box. In these, smooth and rectangular strips of wood are worn on both
sides (top and bottom), which are called shafts.
Lease rod:
Lease rod is an important part of hand-loom, without of lease rod the warp threads are entangled to each other. Secondly, it creates problem during the preparatory process of weaving. Thirdly it helps the joining of warp threads which is broken during the weaving process. It is made of Bamboo, wooden and Steel also.
Temple: moti katha :
Temple is an accessory of handlooms. It is made up of wooden and having an iron pin on both sides. Its main function is to that holds the cloth according to the warp threads which is passed in Reed size. When we used this the cloth can't shrink. If you don't use this, the warp threads of the selvedge are going to broken down so, we face difficulty during weaving. To avoid this we use the temple. In the Varanasi area the weaver use temple at the bottom side.
The actual width of a Cloth in its initial stage can not be all through maintained and therefore it is advisable to use Temple as its remedy. In spite of its use in proper time Shrinkage invariably occurs by about 1.5' to 2" in general; but if it is not at all used, gradually the width is so can't much contracted that the Dents or the Strips at the two ends are liable to be broken by the unusual pressure or contraction of Warp-ends at the two extremities, resulting in Bad Selvedges and the Healds do not work smoothly, Mills generally use Roller Temple for Cotton, Rubber Coated Roller Temple for Rayon, Silk and other Fine Fabrics and Ring Temple for heavy Cloth.
Treadle :
Treadle or Paddle is made up of wooden, Bamboo and Iron also. It is situated bottom of the loom. Its function is to divide the warp thread into two-layer for the opening of the Shed. In the plain loom, there is two Paddle are used. And in another structural weave, there are more than two are used to weave a pattern.
REED| Definition of Reed: Function of Reed in Handloom
It is a metallic Reed or Comb that is fixed to Sley /Slay with a Reed cap at handloom. The stick of Reed is called Split/wire and the space between two-wire/split is known as Dent. There are 2(two) types of Reed :
a. Country Reed (Bamboo Reed)
b. English Reed (Steel or Brass)
The function of Reed:
1. It pushes the lastly laid picks of weft to the feel of the cloth.
2. It helps to maintain the position of warp threads.
3. It acts as a guide to the shuttle for passing one box to another.
4. It determines the density of the clothes.
5. It helps to maintain the width of the fabric.
6. To maintain the Ends per Inch (EPI) and Picks per Inch of the cloth (PPI).
There are many systems of Reed counting:
1. Stock Port system
The total numbers of Dents Per Two Inches is known as Reed Count.
This system of counting is used in Textile Industry vastly.
2. Brad Ford system
The numbers of Beers in 36'' inches is its count.
3. Porter Count System
The total numbers of Dents per 1.85'' inches known as Reed Count.
4. Rad Cliffe System
The total numbers of Dents Per 1'' Inches is its Reed count.
WHAT ARE THE CAUSES OF REED MARKS ON FABRIC:
(1) Insufficient Ends per inch.
(2) Defects in Reed,
(3) Incorrect Setting of the Warp-rollers, Timing of Shedding & Picking.
(4) Wrong Weighting of the Warp Beam.
TREADLE | PEDAL | Function of Treadle in making of Handloom sari
Treadle Definition in handloom:
Treadle or Paddle is made up of wood, Bamboo and Iron also. It is situated bottom of the loom. Its function is to divide the warp thread into two-layer for the opening of the Shed. In plain loom, there is two Paddle are used. And in another structural weave, there are more than two are used to weave a pattern.
After adopting the devices of tie-up of Healds, the shed is formed by up and down movements of the Healds selected according to design to enable the Shuttle to run through the shed formed with weft. Therefore, each Healds connected with a wooden liver at its bottom and that leaver is known as Treddle or Pedal. Suppose an ordinary Twill require 4 Healds, then 4 Pedal have to be connected with the bottom of those Treddles. Such as No1 Pedal connected with the Heald No1 and in the like manner 2 with 2, 3 with 3 and 4 with 4.
TEMPLE- handloom parts| Function of Temple on handloom | moti katha
A theoretical view of Temple-
Temple is an accessory of handlooms. It is made up of wooden and having an iron pin on both sides. Its main function is to that holds the cloth according to the warp threads which is passed in Reed size. When we used this the cloth can't shrink. If you don't use this, the warp threads of the selvedge are going to broken down so, we face difficulty during weaving. To avoid this we use the temple. In the Varanasi area the weaver use temple at the bottom side.
The actual width of a Cloth in its initial stage can not be all through maintained and therefore it is advisable to use Temple as its remedy. In spite of its use in proper time Shrinkage invariably occurs by about 1.5' to 2" in general; but if it is not at all used, gradually the width is so can't much contracted that the Dents or the Strips at the two ends are liable to be broken by the unusual pressure or contraction of Warp-ends at the two extremities, resulting in Bad Selvedges and the Healds do not work smoothly, Mills generally use Roller Temple for Cotton, Rubber Coated Roller Temple for Rayon, Silk and other Fine Fabrics and Ring Temple for heavy Cloth.
Varnish Heald-handloom accessories | banarasi boa
Varnish heald is two categories one is Cotton Varnished Heald another Nylon Varnish Heald. Its have the Male Eye, Male Eye means that a type of hole, where the warp threads are passes. Male Eye is having each and every held shaft. The main function is to divide the warp thread in two two-layer in a proper way. It is about 12 to 14 cm long, in these smooth and rectangular strips of wood are worn on both sides (Top and Bottom). In the Cotton/nylon threads deep varnished are apply to increase the strength, So-called the Varnished Heald.
Wire Heald-
It is about 23 to 28 cm long of the wire heald itself. Wire heald is a heald that is made up of iron or steel. As there are varnished heald it also having of an eye. Through this Male eye, the warp threads are passes. This type of heald has the characteristic that it is moving. It also helps in group drafting.
Importance of Lease rod in weaving:-
Lease rod in weaving is an important part of the hand-loom. It is situated at the back of the Heald. After the release of warp threads from the warp beam, it goes through first passing to the Lease rod, then after going through heald to the fell of the cloth. Without of lease rod, the warp threads are entangled with each other. Secondly, it creates problem during the preparatory process of weaving. Thirdly it helps the joining of warp threads which is broken during the weaving process. It is made by Bamboo, wooden and Steel also.
Loom Post -the handloom pillar description-
The loom post is called the pillar of the Handloom. It is Four posts in which the frame loom are hang. In this 4 post all the system are hank like mainly its sidebar Cloth beam, Warp beam, Sley and treddle.
For more details about the handloom knowledge please visit our website
FAQs-
Q 1. What is temple?
Ans- Temple is an accessory of handlooms. It is made up of wooden and having an iron pin on both sides. Its main function is to that holds the cloth according to the warp threads which is passed in Reed size.
Q 2. -What is treadle on handlooms?
Ans- Treadle or Paddle is made up of wooden, Bamboo and Iron also. It is situated bottom of the loom. Its function is to divide the warp thread into two-layer for the opening of the Shed. In the plain loom, there is two Paddle are used. And in another structural weave, there are more than two are used to weave a pattern.
Q 3. What is a lease rod?
Ans- Lease rod is an important part of hand-loom, without of lease rod the warp threads are entangled to each other. Secondly, it creates problem during the preparatory process of weaving. Thirdly it helps the joining of warp threads which is broken during the weaving process. It is made of Bamboo, wooden and Steel also.
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