Details description of handloom parts| Part-02, hatkargha ka saman ke bare me jankari |Different weaving images with name | Parts and Accessories of handloom, Shuttle, Sley |
Handloom Parts: Detailed Description, Functions and Working of Loom Components
Introduction
A handloom is a manually operated weaving machine used to interlace warp and weft yarns to produce woven fabric.
Although handlooms differ in construction according to the region, fabric type, weaving technique, and design requirements, most looms contain a number of basic components that perform specific functions.
Understanding the parts of a handloom is essential for textile students, handloom weavers, designers, technicians, and anyone learning weaving technology.
Each component has a particular role. The warp beam stores the warp, the healds control shedding, the reed controls warp spacing and helps beat the weft, the shuttle carries the weft, and the cloth beam collects the woven fabric.
This article provides a detailed explanation of the important parts of a handloom and describes how they work together during the weaving process.
What is a Handloom?
A handloom is a loom in which weaving operations are carried out manually by the weaver, generally using hand and foot movements.
The basic weaving operations are:
Shedding
Weft insertion
Beat-up
Taking up the woven cloth
Letting off the warp
In traditional handlooms, these operations are coordinated by the weaver.
Basic Principle of Handloom Weaving
The basic principle of weaving is the interlacement of two sets of yarn:
Warp – longitudinal yarns
Weft – transverse yarns
The sequence is:
Warp Preparation → Shedding → Weft Insertion → Beat-up → Take-up
This sequence is repeated continuously until the required length of fabric is produced.
Main Parts of a Handloom
The exact components vary according to loom type, but the important parts generally include:
Loom frame
Warp beam
Back rest or back beam
Lease rods
Heald shaft
Healds or heddles
Reed
Sley
Batten or beater
Shuttle
Shuttle box
Picker
Treadles
Tie-up
Breast beam
Breast roller
Temple
Cloth beam
Cloth roller
Take-up mechanism
Let-off arrangement
Warp yarn
Weft yarn
Fell of the cloth
Selvedge
The arrangement depends on whether the loom is a frame loom, pit loom, fly-shuttle loom, dobby loom, Jacquard loom, or another specialized handloom.
1. Loom Frame
The loom frame is the main supporting structure of the handloom.
It supports and maintains the position of the major loom components.
Functions
Supports the loom mechanisms
Maintains alignment
Provides structural strength
Supports the warp and cloth beams
Holds the shafts, sley, and other components
A rigid and properly aligned frame is important for consistent weaving.
2. Warp Beam
The warp beam is located toward the back of the loom.
The prepared warp is wound onto the warp beam before weaving begins.
Functions
Stores the warp yarn
Supplies warp gradually to the weaving zone
Helps maintain proper warp tension
The warp beam is also commonly called the back beam in some local terminology, although the terms can refer to different components depending on loom construction.
3. Back Rest / Back Beam
The back rest guides the warp from the warp beam toward the healds.
It helps establish the required path and tension of the warp.
Functions
Guides the warp
Helps maintain warp tension
Provides a suitable warp path
Helps control the angle of the warp entering the shedding zone
The exact construction varies between looms.
4. Lease Rods
Lease rods maintain the correct order and separation of warp ends.
They are particularly useful during warp preparation and loom dressing.
Functions
Maintain warp order
Prevent excessive crossing of warp ends
Help identify individual warp groups
Assist in drawing-in and dressing the loom
Proper lease arrangement makes loom preparation easier and helps prevent crossed warp ends.
5. Heald Shaft
A heald shaft, also called a heddle frame or harness frame, carries a set of healds.
The shafts move upward and downward to create the shed.
Functions
Supports the healds
Controls groups of warp ends
Produces shedding
Determines which warp ends are raised or lowered
A simple loom may have only a few shafts, while dobby and other advanced shaft systems may use more.
6. Healds or Heddles
Healds are individual elements through which warp ends are passed.
Each heald contains an eye through which a warp end normally passes.
Functions
Hold individual warp ends
Raise or lower selected warp ends
Form the shed
Maintain correct warp separation
The heald type should be suitable for the yarn and fabric being woven.
7. Shed
The shed is the opening formed between the raised and lowered warp ends.
It provides a passage through which the weft is inserted.
Function
The main function of the shed is to provide sufficient clearance for the shuttle or other weft insertion device.
A clean and properly formed shed is essential for smooth weaving.
8. Reed
The reed is one of the most important components of the loom.
It consists of closely spaced dents, usually held within a reed frame.
Warp ends pass through the dents according to the required denting plan.
Functions
Maintains warp spacing
Determines warp density in combination with denting
Guides the shuttle through the shed
Beats the inserted weft toward the fell
Helps form a straight and uniform fabric
The reed count and denting arrangement must be selected according to the fabric construction and yarn.
9. Sley
The sley is the movable frame that carries the reed.
It moves forward and backward during weaving.
Functions
Carries the reed
Guides the reed during beat-up
Helps maintain correct reed position
Transfers the beat-up movement to the weft
The sley is sometimes referred to as the lay.
10. Batten or Beater
The batten or beater is the mechanism used to move the reed toward the fell of the cloth.
Main Function
Its primary function is beat-up.
After the weft is inserted, the reed moves forward and pushes the newly inserted weft into the required position.
11. Shuttle
The shuttle is used to carry the weft yarn across the warp shed.
Traditional handlooms commonly use a shuttle containing a pirn or bobbin.
Functions
Carries the weft across the shed
Helps maintain continuous weft insertion
Supports efficient manual weaving
Different shuttle designs are used depending on the loom and weaving method.
12. Pirn or Bobbin
A pirn or bobbin stores the weft yarn used inside or with the shuttle.
Functions
Holds the weft yarn
Supplies yarn during weft insertion
Helps maintain controlled yarn delivery
The shape and size depend on the shuttle system.
13. Shuttle Box
A shuttle box provides a resting and guiding position for the shuttle.
In a fly-shuttle arrangement, shuttle boxes may be provided at one or both sides of the loom.
Functions
Houses the shuttle
Guides shuttle movement
Helps position the shuttle before insertion
14. Picker
The picker is associated with shuttle movement in a fly-shuttle or similar mechanism.
It transfers driving force to the shuttle.
Functions
Propels the shuttle
Controls shuttle movement
Helps achieve regular weft insertion
The picker must be maintained properly to prevent damage to the shuttle or loom.
15. Treadles
Treadles are foot-operated levers used in many traditional handlooms.
The weaver presses the treadles with the feet to operate the shafts.
Functions
Operate the shedding mechanism
Raise selected shafts
Create the required shed
The treadle arrangement depends on the weave and draft.
16. Tie-up
The tie-up connects the treadles with the heald shafts in a conventional treadle loom.
It determines which shafts move when a particular treadle is operated.
Importance
A correct tie-up is essential for obtaining the required weave structure.
For example, different tie-up arrangements can be used for:
Plain weave
Twill
Satin
Other shaft-based structures
17. Breast Beam
The breast beam is located toward the front of the loom.
It supports and guides the cloth as it leaves the weaving zone.
Functions
Supports the front portion of the loom
Guides the woven cloth
Provides a reference point for the cloth path
Supports the weaver's working area in some loom designs
18. Breast Roller
The breast roller guides the cloth from the fell toward the take-up and cloth beam.
Functions
Guides the woven cloth
Helps maintain cloth tension
Provides smooth movement toward the cloth beam
19. Fell of the Cloth
The fell is the line at which the newly inserted weft is beaten into the fabric.
It is the boundary between the already woven cloth and the newly formed portion.
Importance
The position of the fell affects:
Pick density
Cloth construction
Beat-up
Fabric appearance
20. Temple
The temple is a device used to maintain the width of the fabric near the weaving zone.
It prevents excessive contraction of the fabric toward the centre.
Functions
Maintains fabric width
Helps control draw-in
Supports proper selvedge formation
Reduces excessive inward movement of the warp
Different types of temples are used depending on the loom and fabric.
21. Cloth Beam
The cloth beam is located toward the front or lower front portion of the loom.
The woven fabric is wound onto the cloth beam as weaving progresses.
Functions
Stores woven fabric
Maintains cloth tension
Helps control take-up
22. Cloth Roller
The cloth roller is associated with the winding and guiding of the woven fabric.
It helps transport the finished fabric toward the cloth beam or take-up arrangement.
The exact arrangement varies according to loom design.
23. Take-up Mechanism
The take-up mechanism controls the rate at which woven fabric is wound forward.
In some handlooms, take-up may be manual or mechanically assisted.
Functions
Advances the woven fabric
Controls pick density
Maintains suitable cloth tension
Helps maintain consistent fabric construction
Incorrect take-up can cause variation in picks per unit length.
24. Let-off Mechanism
The let-off arrangement controls the release of warp from the warp beam.
Functions
Releases warp gradually
Maintains suitable warp tension
Helps maintain consistent weaving conditions
A properly adjusted let-off is important for uniform fabric quality.
25. Warp
Warp yarns are the yarns arranged in the longitudinal direction of the fabric.
They are prepared before weaving and mounted on the loom.
Functions
Form the longitudinal framework of the fabric
Participate in shedding
Interlace with the weft
Warp yarn normally experiences considerable tension during weaving.
26. Weft
Weft yarn is inserted across the width of the warp.
It is also called filling in some textile terminology.
Functions
Interlaces with the warp
Determines part of the fabric density
Contributes to fabric appearance and structure
27. Selvedge
The selvedge is the finished edge along the length of woven fabric.
It prevents the fabric edge from fraying excessively.
Functions
Provides a stable fabric edge
Helps maintain fabric width
Improves appearance
Reduces edge fraying
28. Warp Tension System
Proper warp tension is essential for stable weaving.
The warp should be maintained at a suitable and reasonably uniform tension.
Excessive tension may cause:
Warp breakage
Difficult shedding
Excessive abrasion
Insufficient tension may cause:
Poor shed formation
Uneven fabric
Loose warp ends
Irregular beat-up
How the Main Parts Work Together
The handloom components do not work independently. They operate as a coordinated system.
Step 1: Warp Beam
Stores and supplies the warp.
↓
Step 2: Back Rest and Lease Rods
Guide and organize the warp.
↓
Step 3: Heald Shafts and Healds
Separate the warp and form the shed.
↓
Step 4: Shuttle
Carries the weft through the shed.
↓
Step 5: Reed and Sley
Beat the inserted weft into position.
↓
Step 6: Breast Roller
Guides the woven cloth forward.
↓
Step 7: Take-up
Advances the fabric.
↓
Step 8: Cloth Beam
Stores the woven fabric.
Basic Weaving Cycle of a Handloom
A complete weaving cycle can be represented as:
Shedding
↓
Weft Insertion
↓
Beat-up
↓
Take-up
↓
Next Shed
This cycle repeats continuously.
Shedding
Shedding is the process of separating the warp yarns into two or more layers to create an opening.
The heald shafts are responsible for controlling the warp groups.
Purpose
To provide a passage for the shuttle or other weft insertion device.
Weft Insertion
After the shed is formed, the weft is inserted through it.
In a traditional handloom this may be done using a shuttle operated manually by the weaver.
Beat-up
After the weft is inserted, the reed is moved toward the fell.
This pushes the newly inserted weft into its correct position.
Beat-up determines the compactness and contributes to the pick density of the fabric.
Take-up
The woven fabric is gradually advanced and wound onto the cloth beam.
The take-up rate influences the number of picks per unit length.
Let-off
As weaving continues, more warp must be supplied from the warp beam.
The let-off system controls this supply while maintaining appropriate warp tension.
Difference Between Reed and Heald
| Reed | Heald |
|---|---|
| Contains dents | Contains eyes |
| Maintains warp spacing | Controls individual/grouped warp ends |
| Performs beat-up with the sley | Helps form the shed |
| Located in the sley | Located in the shaft/harness |
| Influences warp density through denting | Determines shaft-based warp selection |
Difference Between Warp Beam and Cloth Beam
| Warp Beam | Cloth Beam |
|---|---|
| Located toward the back | Located toward the front |
| Stores warp | Stores woven cloth |
| Supplies warp | Receives finished fabric |
| Associated with let-off | Associated with take-up |
Difference Between Sley and Reed
The reed is the component containing the dents through which warp ends pass.
The sley is the movable frame that carries the reed and moves it during beat-up.
Therefore:
Reed = Warp-spacing and beat-up element
Sley = Movable frame carrying the reed
Importance of Proper Loom Setting
Correct setting of each component is essential for good fabric quality.
Important settings include:
Warp tension
Reed count
Denting
Draft
Tie-up
Shed size
Beat-up
Take-up
Let-off
Shuttle movement
Incorrect settings may result in:
Uneven fabric
Warp breakage
Weft marks
Pattern distortion
Uneven selvedges
Incorrect fabric density
Common Handloom Problems and Related Parts
Warp Breakage
Check:
Warp tension
Healds
Reed
Lease arrangement
Yarn quality
Poor Shed
Check:
Heald shafts
Treadles
Tie-up
Warp tension
Uneven Pick Density
Check:
Take-up
Beat-up
Weft insertion
Narrow Fabric
Check:
Temple
Warp draw-in
Warp tension
Uneven Selvedge
Check:
Temple
Shuttle insertion
Weft tension
Beat-up
Difficult Shuttle Movement
Check:
Shed size
Shuttle condition
Picker
Shuttle box
Sley alignment
Maintenance of Handloom Parts
Regular maintenance helps improve loom performance and fabric quality.
1. Clean the Loom Regularly
Remove dust, lint, and accumulated fibre.
2. Inspect the Reed
Check for bent, damaged, or rough dents.
3. Inspect Healds
Replace damaged or rough healds.
4. Check Shafts
Ensure that shafts move freely and remain properly aligned.
5. Check Treadles
Make sure treadles operate smoothly.
6. Inspect Shuttle and Picker
Damaged shuttles and worn pickers can affect weft insertion.
7. Check Warp Tension
Maintain suitable and reasonably uniform tension.
8. Inspect Take-up and Let-off
Ensure that the cloth advances and warp is released consistently.
9. Lubricate Where Appropriate
Suitable moving mechanical parts should be maintained according to the loom manufacturer's or loom type's requirements.
Safety Precautions for Handloom Operation
The weaver should:
Keep hands away from moving parts.
Use properly maintained tools.
Replace damaged loom components.
Avoid loose clothing near moving mechanisms.
Keep the working area clean.
Check the loom before beginning weaving.
Use suitable lighting and seating.
Avoid operating a damaged mechanism.
Importance of Handloom Parts for Textile Students
Understanding loom parts helps students connect theoretical weaving knowledge with practical operation.
A student who understands the function of each part can more easily understand:
Shedding
Picking
Beat-up
Take-up
Let-off
Drafting
Denting
Tie-up
Fabric construction
Loom setting
Weaving defects
It also makes troubleshooting much easier.
Quick Reference Table
| Part | Main Function |
|---|---|
| Loom frame | Supports loom components |
| Warp beam | Stores warp |
| Back rest | Guides warp |
| Lease rods | Maintain warp order |
| Heald shaft | Supports healds and controls warp groups |
| Heald | Forms shed |
| Reed | Maintains spacing and beats weft |
| Sley | Carries reed |
| Batten/Beater | Performs beat-up |
| Shuttle | Carries weft |
| Pirn/Bobbin | Holds weft |
| Picker | Propels shuttle |
| Treadle | Operates shedding |
| Tie-up | Connects treadles and shafts |
| Breast beam | Supports front of loom |
| Breast roller | Guides cloth |
| Temple | Maintains fabric width |
| Fell | Point where new weft is beaten in |
| Take-up | Advances woven cloth |
| Cloth beam | Stores woven fabric |
| Let-off | Releases warp |
| Selvedge | Forms stable fabric edge |
Handloom Parts: Easy Sequence to Remember
For examination purposes, the main sequence can be remembered as:
Warp Beam → Back Rest → Lease Rods → Healds → Shed → Reed → Shuttle → Fell → Breast Roller → Take-up → Cloth Beam
This represents the general movement of warp and fabric through the weaving process.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. What are the main parts of a handloom?
The main parts include the loom frame, warp beam, back rest, lease rods, heald shafts, healds, reed, sley, shuttle, treadles, breast beam, temple, take-up system, cloth beam, and related mechanisms.
2. What is the function of a heald?
A heald carries a warp end through its eye and helps raise or lower the warp to form the shed.
3. What is the function of a reed?
The reed maintains warp spacing, guides the weft insertion area, and beats the inserted weft into the fabric.
4. What is the function of a shuttle?
The shuttle carries the weft yarn across the warp shed.
5. What is the function of a treadle?
A treadle is a foot-operated lever used to control the shedding mechanism in many traditional handlooms.
6. What is the function of a temple?
A temple helps maintain fabric width and reduces excessive draw-in during weaving.
7. What is the function of the warp beam?
The warp beam stores the prepared warp and supplies it gradually during weaving.
8. What is the function of the cloth beam?
The cloth beam receives and stores the woven fabric.
9. What is the difference between warp and weft?
Warp runs in the lengthwise direction of the fabric, while weft runs across the width.
10. What is beat-up?
Beat-up is the operation in which the reed pushes the inserted weft toward the fell of the cloth.
11. What is shedding?
Shedding is the formation of an opening between warp yarns for insertion of the weft.
12. Why is warp tension important?
Proper warp tension helps maintain stable shedding, uniform fabric construction, and consistent weaving performance.
Conclusion
A handloom is a coordinated system of mechanical and structural components. Each part has a specific role, but good fabric quality depends on all the parts working together correctly.
The warp beam supplies the warp, the healds form the shed, the shuttle inserts the weft, the reed performs beat-up and controls warp spacing, the take-up advances the cloth, and the cloth beam stores the finished fabric.
A clear understanding of these parts is essential for textile students, handloom weavers, designers, and technicians. It also provides the foundation for understanding more advanced systems such as Dobby, Jacquard, Jala, figured weaving, and double-cloth construction.
Related Articles
Parts of Handloom: Complete Guide to Loom Parts and Their Functions
Dobby in Handloom Weaving
Jacquard Machine: Introduction, Parts and Their Functions
Jacquard Weaving
Jala Technique in Handloom Weaving
Figured Single Cloth
Figured Double Cloth (DC2)
Figured Double Cloth (DC4)
Extra Warp Design
Types of Handloom
Different Types of Weaving Techniques
Handloom Parts & Accessories – Part 2
Traditional handlooms are made up of many vital parts, each with its own function. Here’s an easy guide to some important components used in weaving.
1. Picking Handle:-
A wooden or cotton-made handle connected to the picker by a rope on both sides of the shuttle box. The weaver operates it to push the shuttle from one box to another.
2. Heald Shaft:-
Made of wood or steel, it holds the heald wires for even shedding of warp threads, allowing the shuttle to pass smoothly. Wooden strips at the top and bottom are called shafts.
3. Lease Rod:-
Located behind the heald, it prevents warp threads from tangling, aids in preparatory processes, and helps rejoin broken threads. Made of bamboo, wood, or steel.
4. Temple (Moti Katha):-
A wooden tool with iron pins at both ends, it keeps fabric at the correct width, preventing shrinkage and protecting selvedge threads. Roller temples are used for cotton, rubber-coated for silk/rayon, and ring temples for heavy cloth.
5. Treadle (Pedal):-
Wooden, bamboo, or iron pedals at the bottom of the loom used to open the shed by dividing warp threads into two layers. The number of treadles depends on the weave pattern.
6. Reed:-
A metallic comb fixed to the sley, guiding the shuttle and maintaining fabric density, width, and uniformity.
Types:
1. Country Reed (Bamboo)
2. English Reed (Steel/Brass)
Functions:
Pushes weft into place, aligns warp threads, guides the shuttle, and controls EPI & PPI.
7. Varnished Heald:-
Available in cotton or nylon with a “male eye” for warp passage. Coated with varnish for strength, about 12–14 cm long.
8. Wire Heald:-
Made of steel or iron, 23–28 cm long, with a male eye for warp threads. Helps in group drafting.
9. Loom Post:-
The four main pillars of the loom, supporting all other components like the warp beam, cloth beam, sley, and treadle.
Picking
handle:
Picking handle is made by wooden or it
cotton and tied to a cotton rope and the rope is connected to picker both side
of shuttle box. It is operated by the weaver for passing the shuttle one box to
other. It pusses the shuttle to go through another shuttle box.
Heald Shaft :
Lease rod is an important part of hand-loom, without of lease rod the warp threads are entangled to each other. Secondly, it creates problem during the preparatory process of weaving. Thirdly it helps the joining of warp threads which is broken during the weaving process. It is made of Bamboo, wooden and Steel also.
Temple: moti katha :
Treadle :
Varnish Heald-handloom accessories | banarasi boa
Wire Heald-
It is about 23 to 28 cm long of the wire heald itself. Wire heald is a heald that is made up of iron or steel. As there are varnished heald it also having of an eye. Through this Male eye, the warp threads are passes. This type of heald has the characteristic that it is moving. It also helps in group drafting.
Importance of Lease rod in weaving:-
Lease rod in weaving is an important part of the hand-loom. It is situated at the back of the Heald. After the release of warp threads from the warp beam, it goes through first passing to the Lease rod, then after going through heald to the fell of the cloth. Without of lease rod, the warp threads are entangled with each other. Secondly, it creates problem during the preparatory process of weaving. Thirdly it helps the joining of warp threads which is broken during the weaving process. It is made by Bamboo, wooden and Steel also.
Loom Post -the handloom pillar description-
The loom post is called the pillar of the Handloom. It is Four posts in which the frame loom are hang. In this 4 post all the system are hank like mainly its sidebar Cloth beam, Warp beam, Sley and treddle.
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