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Jacquard 5th Semister Notes of IIHT
Handloom Jacquard Figured Cloth Producing Technique step by step:-
Figured Warp Backed Cloth
Method of Producing-
1. Figured warp backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the weft backed structure.
2. Interchanging figured warp backed cloth are produce by using single colour weft and two colour of warp e.i light and dark colour.
3. The quality of warp for the both colours should be same.
4. In ground portion if light colour warp is on the face, dark colour warp remains back.
5. In figured portion if dark colour warps is on the face , light colour warp remain back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for furnishing.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a warp surface is produced on both sides.
Reversible warp backed cloth-
Face and Back same weaves are used in riverside warp backed cloth…
Figured Weft Backed Cloth
1. Figured weft backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the warp backed cloth structure.
2. Interchanging figured weft backed cloth are produce by using single colour warp and two colour of weft i.e. light and dark.
3. The quality of weft for both the colours should be same.
4. In ground portions if light colour weft is on the face, dark colour weft remains back.
5. In figure portions if dark colour weft is on the face, light colour weft remains back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for Blankets and Rugs.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on bith sides.
Reversible Warp Backed Cloth-
* Face and back same weave are used is reversible warp backed cloth i.e. 5 thread twill on both sides.
* Non-Reversible warp backed cloth
* Face and back different weaves are used that is non-Reversible warp backed cloth i.e., 2/2 twill on face side and 1/3 twill on back side.
* In Straight tie and straight draft system on ordinary Jacquard is used in which the hooks and needles are connected in the ordinary manners.
* First needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on twill the last needle and last hooks of the machine.
* With the first hook of the machine, the machine, the first harness cord is connected, the second harness cord to the second harness cord to the second hook. The third to third and so on.
Graph preparation-
Numbers of end in the graph = Jacquard capacity
OR
Numbers of ends in the graph = EPI x width of the motif
Numbers of picks in the graph = Total numbers of picks
OR
PPI x Length / Height of the motif
2. Regular enlargement and stepping is carried
3. In the ground portion dark picks are shaded and in the figure portions light picks are shaded.
4. Two different colour can be used for this purpose.
5. As per the weave selected the binding marks are given in shaded and non- shaded portions.
a) The binding marks are not given in the horizontal edges of shaded and non-shaded lines.
b) The binding marks are not given where the horizontal lines length (weft float length) is less than the float length of the binding weave selected.
6…
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