Jacquard Part -02| Handloom Jacquard Weaving | Jacquard Practical | 5th Semister Notes of IIHT 3rd Year | Function of Jacquard | Jacquard Weaving |
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Practical Session of Jacquard Notes | Jacquaed Practical |
Jacquard 5th Semister Notes of IIHT
Handloom Jacquard Figured Cloth Producing Technique step by step:-
Figured single cloth-
Method of producing Figured single cloth-
Warp- Single series, single colour
Jacquard- Ordinary Jacquard, 1 Hook 1 Needle
Tie/Draft- Straight tie and Straight Draft.
Graph preparation-
1. The numbers of ends in the Graph = Numbers of Hooks
2. Numbers of picks in the graph = Depends on the length of the design and picks per Inch.
3. Enlarge and give stepping
4. Point the figure portion to show warp up leaving ground portion to show Weft up.
5. Given binding marks in figure and ground portion (Plain, Twill and Satin etc) binding mark are not given in the corners and stepping.
6. Indicate selvedge weave marks.
7. Divide the ends in graph. Number of ends in each group = Numbers of needle in short rows.
Punching
1 Pick = 1 Card, Pu…
Lacing-
All the cards are laced in the regular order 1,2,3,4,.....
Weaving-
Weaving is done with single shuttle with mono colour.
Figured Damask Cloth-
Method of producing figured Damask-
Warp- Single series, Single colour.
Jacquard- Ordinary Jacquard
1 Hook = 1 Needle
Tue/Draft- Straight tie and Straight draft.
In straight tie and straight draft system an ordinary Jacquard is used in which in which the Hooks and Needles are connected in the ordinary manner.
First Needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on till the last Needle and last Hook of the machine.
With the first hook of the machine the first harness cord is connected. Second Hook. The third to the third and so on
Graph preparation-
1. Numbers of ends in the Graph = Number of Hook.
2. Numbers of pick in the
Graph = Depends on the length of the design and picks per Inch.
3. Enlarge and give stepping.
4. Paint the figured portion to show warp up leaving ground portion to show Weft up.
5. Give binding mark in figure and ground portion.
6. Indicate selvedge weave mark.
7. Divide the ends in groups, Numbers of ends in each group = Numbers of Needles in short row.
Punching-
1 Pick = 1Card
Punch marks in ground portion and also punched painted portion leaving marks over painted portion.
Lacing-
All the cards are laced in the regular order 1,2,3,4,......
Weaving-
Weaving is done through single shuttle with mono colour.
Figured Warp Backed Cloth
Method of Producing-
1. Figured warp backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the weft backed structure.
2. Interchanging figured warp backed cloth are produce by using single colour weft and two colour of warp e.i light and dark colour.
3. The quality of warp for the both colours should be same.
4. In ground portion if light colour warp is on the face, dark colour warp remains back.
5. In figured portion if dark colour warps is on the face , light colour warp remain back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for furnishing.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a warp surface is produced on both sides.
Reversible warp backed cloth-
Face and Back same weaves are used in riverside warp backed cloth…
Figured Weft Backed Cloth
1. Figured weft backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the warp backed cloth structure.
2. Interchanging figured weft backed cloth are produce by using single colour warp and two colour of weft i.e. light and dark.
3. The quality of weft for both the colours should be same.
4. In ground portions if light colour weft is on the face, dark colour weft remains back.
5. In figure portions if dark colour weft is on the face, light colour weft remains back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for Blankets and Rugs.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on bith sides.
Reversible Warp Backed Cloth-
* Face and back same weave are used is reversible warp backed cloth i.e. 5 thread twill on both sides.
* Non-Reversible warp backed cloth
* Face and back different weaves are used that is non-Reversible warp backed cloth i.e., 2/2 twill on face side and 1/3 twill on back side.
* In Straight tie and straight draft system on ordinary Jacquard is used in which the hooks and needles are connected in the ordinary manners.
* First needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on twill the last needle and last hooks of the machine.
* With the first hook of the machine, the machine, the first harness cord is connected, the second harness cord to the second harness cord to the second hook. The third to third and so on.
Graph preparation-
Numbers of end in the graph = Jacquard capacity
OR
Numbers of ends in the graph = EPI x width of the motif
Numbers of picks in the graph = Total numbers of picks
OR
PPI x Length / Height of the motif
2. Regular enlargement and stepping is carried
3. In the ground portion dark picks are shaded and in the figure portions light picks are shaded.
4. Two different colour can be used for this purpose.
5. As per the weave selected the binding marks are given in shaded and non- shaded portions.
a) The binding marks are not given in the horizontal edges of shaded and non-shaded lines.
b) The binding marks are not given where the horizontal lines length (weft float length) is less than the float length of the binding weave selected.
6…
Figured interchanging Double Cloth ( 2 Colour Effect)
* Figured interchanging two colour effect Double Cloth are produce by having consist 1:1 light and dark colour arrangement in the warp and weft.
* Two plain layers of cloth one over the another from the ground parts.
* If the top cloth layer is in light warp
* If the top cloth layer is in light colour warp and light colour weft combination, the bottom cloth layer
is in dark colour warp and dark colour weft combination.
* Similarly, two plain layers of cloth one over the others exactly opposite to ground parts from the figure parts.
* That is if the top cloth layer is in dark colour warp and dark colour weft combination, the bottom cloth layer is in light colour warp and light colour weft combination or vice-versa.
* Therefore both in ground and figure portions two layers of cloth remain separate but interchange between each other where the ground changes to figure and figure changes to ground.
* These interchanging places are the stitching places of the double cloth...
* The weave of the layers is mostly plain. In few parts twills and other simple weave are also used.
Four (4) Loom technique that are mostly used for…
1. No of ends in guide graph = No. Hooks/2
2. No of picks in main graph = total picks of the Design.
3. In the main graph stepping is given following the stepping of guide graph.
4. Every one step in each direction of the guide graph is doubled in the main graph.
5. Because of this at least one light and one dark thread are made available even in the minimum gap of the figure and ground.
6. Give the following weave in ground and figure portion.
7. While giving weaving marks in the graph it is necessary to start the repeat of the weaves by continuing the order of colouring, for this the graph can be divided in to 4 ends and 4 picks in the margin.
8. Since the double cloth weave is an equal face weave, it is necessary to give the weaves mark up to the corner…
Figured interchanging Double cloth (4 colour Effect)
1. Light + Light and Dark + Dark is two solid colour effect, which ger interchanged to produce two colour effect double cloth.
2. In 4 colour effect Double cloth a part from the Light + Light and Dark + Dark solid colour combination are also used.
3. They are Light + Dark and Dark + Light which interchanged each other.
4. In four colour Double cloth out of the 2 solid colour combination, one is used in the ground and other is used in most of the figure parts.
5. The Light + Dark and Dark + Light mixed combination is used only in few of the figure parts, since it gives only subdued appearance in the cloth.
Method of producing figured interchanging Double cloth (DC4)
Warp & Weft- 2 series of warp …
Main Graph preparation-
1. No of ends in main graph 2 nos of hook.
2. Numbers of = Total picks of the design.
3. In the main graph stepping is given following the stepping of guide graph .
4. Every one step in each direction of the guide graph is doubled in the main graph.
5. Because of this at least one light and one dark thread are made available even in the minimum gape of the figure and ground.
6. Gives the following weaves in ground and different parts of the figure portion.
7 while giving weaves mark on the graph it is necessary to start the repeat of the weave by confirming the order of colouring, for this the graph can be divided in to 4 ends and 4 picks in the margin.
8. Since the Double cloth weave is an equal face weave, it is necessary to give the weave marks up to the corner of stepping. Indicate selvedge weave mark. (Modified twill weave).
9. Devide the ends in the graph in groups according to the numbers of needles in the short row of the Jacquad.
Punching-
Punch all marks.....1,2,3,4,5.....1 Pick = 1 Card
All the cards are numbered in the order of 1,2,3,4,5,..,
Lacing-
All the cards are laced in regular 1,2,3,4,5....sequence.
Weaving-
Having two shuttles with one light and one dark colour and different weft colours from warp.
Weaving is carried in 1:1 order.
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