Jacquard Introduction Part -01 | Handloom Jacquard Weaving | 5th Semister Notes of IIHT 3rd Year | Function of Jacquard | Jacquard Weaving |
Handloom Jacquard Weaving Notes of 5th Semister | 3rd Year |
Jacquard 5th Semister Notes of IIHT
Introduction
of Jacquard
What is Jacquard | Jacquard kya Hai | Object of cross border jacquard weaving | What is Jacquard front side?
Question-What is the meaning of Jacquard?
Ans-
Jacquard is a shedding device that is a combination of Needles and Hooks. Its main function is to lift the warp threads according to design and produce the design on fabric. We can use the Jacquard device when the design is on the board. The jacquard machine is for floral design (Small or Big), particularly elaborate design which is not generally possible on Dobby. Single lift and single Cylinder is the simplest Jacquard among them. It has a different capacity starting from 100 Hooks to 1200 Hooks. It is used both Handloom and Power loom. A Jacquard system usually located above the loom and control a large number of warp threads independently by means of harness cord, hooks and needles. Each hook in a Jacquard represents a single heald or single thread lift for design.
History of Jacquard-
Jacquard was invented by a French (France) weaver named Joseph Marry Jacquard in 1801 BC and some say in 1804 BC. It was so named after his personal name. This was first exhibited at a national Exhibition in Paris.
A theoretical view of Jacquard-
Different size of Jacquard Machine:
Jacquard Size | Hook per row | Number of row | Number of stool hooks |
100 | 4 | 26 | 104 |
200 | 4 | 51 | 204 |
200 | 8 | 26 | 208 |
300 | 6 | 51 | 306 |
300 | 8 | 38 | 304 |
300 | 12 | 26 | 312 |
400 | 8 | 51 | 408 |
500 | 10 | 51 | 510 |
600 | 12 | 51 | 612 |
800 | 8 | 101 | 808 |
900 | 12 | 76 | 912 |
1200 | 12 | 101 | 1212 |
The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |
The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.
1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.
2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.
1. Jacquard
is a shedding device which is used to produce complicated woven design which
can't be made by using the Dobby or Tappet Shedding mechanism.
2. Jacquard
was developed in the year 1801 by the Jopesh Marry Jacquard (1752-1834), who was French weaver and merchant.
3. In
jacquard shedding mechanism individuals’ yarns can be controlled independently,
so large woven figured produce in fabric.
4. The
Jacquard loom consists of two parts one is the loom and another is Jacquard.
5. The loom
is situated at the flooring and the Jacquard is situated above the loom.
6. Jacquard shedding
is a piece of mechanism for sleeting and lifting or lowering a group of ends in
a repeat. is Negative type of shedding.
Different
types of Jacquard
Special
Jacquard are modification of ordinary ones. These are design to increase the
figuring capacity of the Jacquard or to weave special types of fabrics. Some of
the specials Jacquard are-
1. Cross
boarder Jacquard
2. Leno
Jacquard
3. Scal
harness or banister Jacquard
4.
Pressove harness Jacquard
5.
Twilling Jacquard
6.
Inverted hooks Jacquard
7.
Jacquard with working comber board.
8. Fine
pitch Jacquard
Categories
of Jacquard-
Mechanical
Jacquard system can be classified under 3 categories
1. Single
Lift and Single Cylinder Jacquard (SLSC)
2. Double
Lift and Single Cylinder (DCSL)
3. Double
Lift Double Cylinder (DLDC)
Categories Jacquard Mounting-
1. London
System
2.
Norwhich system
1.
London System of harness tie-
* When the Jacquard
machine is placed above the loom that the cylinder is either right or left in
position of the loom is called the London System harness tie.
* The long
rows of hooks in the machine are at right angle of the row of the holes in the
comber board and the harness receives a quater turn or a partial crossing in
passing from the hook through the comber board.
* The only difference
between this method of harness tie is that the Jacquard machine is tomed one quatre
way round with relation to the loom.
* When this
method is used the cord of the Jacquard machine hang either over the right hand
or left-hand side of the loom.
2. Norwhich
system of Harness tie-
* When
Jacquard machine is mounted with the parallel of the loom is called Norwhich
system of harness tie.
* In this
Jacquard the long rows of needle are
parallel to the comber board and at the right angle to the warp.
* The cord
will be at the front or at the back of the loom.
* The
cylinder is either to the front or back of the loom.
Different
types of Harness Tie-
The both
London and Nor-which are divided into the following 5 types
1.
Straight tie
2. Pointed
tie
3. Body
and boarder tie.
4. Sectional
tie
5. Mixed tie.
Key Points-
* This is
the most common design tie used for both Nor-which and London harness tie.
* The fabric
contains more than one repeat of the design in its full width.
* In this
tie there must be as many harnesses’ cords tie to each neck cords as there are
repeats in the full width of the fabric.
* Thus, if
there are and repeats of the pattern in the width of the fabric then there will
be 4 harness cords tied ti each neck cord or hook.
* Pointed or
Cantered tie
* This type
of tie is suitable use when a design is symmetrical, if it turned over the
central line.
* Suppose
the design shown in the figure completes 400 ends in its full repeats.
The number
of ends from the central line to each dotted line is 200 repeating a half
repeat of the design.
* The
harness line are connected from the 1st to 200 hooks in a regular order and
then from the 399th, the harness line are connected in the reverse order that
is from 199th to the 2nd hook from where the order is against reversed and the
harness cord is passed through hole No.1 in the comber board number 200nd in
the centre and number 1 repeat at the right.
* The design
with the omission of these ends will have to totally398 end instead of 400 ends
origa…
Boarder
and Body tie
* A tie
which is used mainly used for bordered fabrics like Saree, Furnishing materials
etc.
* In this
tie one repeats of the boarder of the boarder figure is made at CACH SIDE OF THE
FABRIC ONLY.
* The
central design is, however repeat number of times.
* The
central portion may have a pointed or centre repeating and any appropriate
number of hooks any be assigned for the boarder and body design of the fabric.
1. Sectional
Tie
This kind
of tie is used in Jacquard weaving where more than one kind of warp is used. In
this system the comber board is divided in to 2 or more equal parts. Similarly,
the hooks are divided into two sections, such that they are in some protection
as the warp threads of each kind from each section of hook. The harness cord is
passed through a separate longitudinal section of the comber board and each
kind of warp is drawn through the harness mails of the section allotted to it.
2. Mixed
Tie
This
tie-up is a combination of the straight through boarder and centre tie-up
methods. This system is employed for the purpose of enabling a certain portion
of the design to be introduced more or less frequently than others portion. The
first set of 160 hooks is harnessed in a boarder tie manner. The next 80 hooks
the remaining 160 hooks are harnessed in a painted its manner.
5. Figured Warp Backed Cloth
1. Figured warp backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the weft backed structure.
2. Interchanging figured warp backed cloth are produce by using single colour weft and two colour of warp e.i light and dark colour.
3. The quality of warp for the both colours should be same.
4. In ground portion if light colour warp is on the face, dark colour warp remains back.
5. In figured portion if dark colour warps is on the face , light colour warp remain back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for furnishing.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a warp surface is produced on both sides.
Reversible warp backed cloth-
Face and Back same weaves are used in riverside war…
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6. Figured Weft Backed Cloth
1. Figured weft backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the warp backed cloth structure.
2. Interchanging figured weft backed cloth are produce by using single colour warp and two colour of weft i.e. light and dark.
3. The quality of weft for both the colours should be same.
4. In ground portions if light colour weft is on the face, dark colour weft remains back.
5. In figure portions if dark colour weft is on the face, light colour weft remains back.
6. This can be vice-versa also.
7. These structures are mainly used for Blankets and Rugs.
8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on bith sides.
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Reversible Warp Backed Cloth-
Face and back same weave are used is reversible warp backed cloth i.e. 5 thread twill on both sides.
Non-Reversible warp backed cloth
Face and back different weaves are used that is non-Reversible warp backed cloth i.e., 2/2 twill on face side and 1/3 twill on back side.
In Straight tie and straight draft system on ordinary Jacquard is used in which the hooks and needles are connected in the ordinary manners.
First needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on twill the last needle and last hooks of the machine.
With the first hook of the machine, the machine, the first harness cord is connected, the second harness cord to the second harness cord to the second hook. The third to third and so on.
Graph preparation-
Numbers of end in the graph = Jacquard capacity
OR
Numbers of ends in the graph = EPI x width of the motif
Numbers of picks in the graph = Total numbers of picks
OR
PPI x Length / Height of the motif
2. Regular enlargement and stepping is carried
3. In the ground portion dark picks are shaded and in the figure portions light picks are shaded.
4. Two different colour can be used for this purpose.
5. As per the weave selected the binding marks are given in shaded and non- shaded portions.
a) The binding marks are not given in the horizontal edges of shaded and non-shaded lines.
b) The binding marks are not given where the horizontal lines length (weft float length) is less than the float length of the binding weave selected.
6…
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Parts of Jacquard and their functions |
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