Jacquard Part -01 | Handloom Jacquard Weaving | 5th Semister Notes of IIHT 3rd Year | Function of Jacquard | Jacquard Weaving |

 Handloom Jacquard Weaving Notes of 5th Semister | 3rd Year |

Jacquard 5th Semister Notes of IIHT

 

Introduction of Jacquard

 Jacquard | Definition of Jacquard loom by J.M Jacquard | 

What is Jacquard | Jacquard kya Hai | Object of cross border jacquard weaving | What is Jacquard front side?

Question- What is Jacquard?

Question-What is the meaning of Jacquard?

Ans- 

          Jacquard is a shedding device that is a combination of Needles and Hooks. Its main function is to lift the warp threads according to design and produce the design on fabric. We can use the Jacquard device when the design is on the board. The jacquard machine is for floral design (Small or Big), particularly elaborate design which is not generally possible on Dobby.  Single lift and single Cylinder is the simplest Jacquard among them. It has a different capacity starting from 100 Hooks to 1200 Hooks. It is used both Handloom and Power loom. A Jacquard system usually located above the loom and control a large number of warp threads independently by means of harness cord, hooks and needles. Each hook in a Jacquard represents a single heald or single thread lift for design.

History of Jacquard-

                 Jacquard was invented by a French (France) weaver named Joseph Marry Jacquard in 1801 BC and some say in 1804 BC. It was so named after his personal name. This was first exhibited at a national Exhibition in Paris.

A theoretical view of Jacquard- 

                This is Design Card, which is used in Jacquard and instruct the machine to lift the warp threads according to design. This is a pre-filled design card.

Different size of Jacquard Machine:

Jacquard Size	Hook per row	Number of row	Number of stool hooks
100	4	26	104
200	4	51	204
200	8	26	208
300	6	51	306
300	8	38	304
300	12	26	312
400	8	51	408
500	10	51	510
600	12	51	612
800	8	101	808
900	12	76	912
1200	12	101	1212

The object of Cross border Jacquard weaving |

                            The cross-border is a border that is seen at the Pallu. First of all, we know that what is boarder? The border is situated at the top and bottom of the saree with the many intricate decorative designs is called a border. It is the main part of a saree.

1. The Main object of cross-border design is to fill the area of the Pallu on saree.

2. the cross-boarder is helped to identify the Pallu starting point and ending point in Saree.

Key Pointts of Jacquard

1. Jacquard is a shedding device which is used to produce complicated woven design which can't be made by using the Dobby or Tappet Shedding mechanism.

 

2. Jacquard was developed in the year 1801 by the Jopesh Marry Jacquard  (1752-1834), who was French weaver and merchant.

 

3. In jacquard shedding mechanism individuals’ yarns can be controlled independently, so large woven figured produce in fabric.

 

4. The Jacquard loom consists of two parts one is the loom and another is Jacquard.

 

5. The loom is situated at the flooring and the Jacquard is situated above the loom.

 

6. Jacquard shedding is a piece of mechanism for sleeting and lifting or lowering a group of ends in a repeat.  is Negative type of shedding.

 

Different types of Jacquard

Special Jacquard are modification of ordinary ones. These are design to increase the figuring capacity of the Jacquard or to weave special types of fabrics. Some of the specials Jacquard are-

 

1. Cross boarder Jacquard

2. Leno Jacquard

3. Scal harness or banister Jacquard

4. Pressove harness Jacquard

5. Twilling Jacquard

6. Inverted hooks Jacquard

7. Jacquard with working comber board.

8. Fine pitch Jacquard

Categories of Jacquard-

Mechanical Jacquard system can be classified under 3 categories

 

1. Single Lift and Single Cylinder Jacquard (SLSC)

2. Double Lift and Single Cylinder (DCSL)

3. Double Lift Double Cylinder (DLDC)

Categories Jacquard Mounting-

1. London System

2. Norwhich system

 

1. London System of harness tie-

* When the Jacquard machine is placed above the loom that the cylinder is either right or left in position of the loom is called the London System harness tie.

 

* The long rows of hooks in the machine are at right angle of the row of the holes in the comber board and the harness receives a quater turn or a partial crossing in passing from the hook through the comber board.

 

* The only difference between this method of harness tie is that the Jacquard machine is tomed one quatre way round with relation to the loom.

 

* When this method is used the cord of the Jacquard machine hang either over the right hand or left-hand side of the loom.

 

2. Norwhich system of Harness tie-

* When Jacquard machine is mounted with the parallel of the loom is called Norwhich system of harness tie.

 

* In this Jacquard  the long rows of needle are parallel to the comber board and at the right angle to the warp.

 

* The cord will be at the front or at the back of the loom.

* The cylinder is either to the front or back of the loom.

 

Different types of Harness Tie-

The both London and Nor-which are divided into the following 5 types

1. Straight tie

2. Pointed tie

3. Body and boarder tie.

4. Sectional tie

5. Mixed  tie.

Key Points-

* This is the most common design tie used for both Nor-which and London harness tie.

 

* The fabric contains more than one repeat of the design in its full width.

 

* In this tie there must be as many harnesses’ cords tie to each neck cords as there are repeats in the full width of the fabric.

 

* Thus, if there are and repeats of the pattern in the width of the fabric then there will be 4 harness cords tied ti each neck cord or hook.

* Pointed or Cantered tie

 

* This type of tie is suitable use when a design is symmetrical, if it turned over the central line.

 

* Suppose the design shown in the figure completes 400 ends in its full repeats.

 

The number of ends from the central line to each dotted line is 200 repeating a half repeat of the design.

 

* The harness line are connected from the 1st to 200 hooks in a regular order and then from the 399th, the harness line are connected in the reverse order that is from 199th to the 2nd hook from where the order is against reversed and the harness cord is passed through hole No.1 in the comber board number 200nd in the centre and number 1 repeat at the right.

 

* The design with the omission of these ends will have to totally398 end instead of 400 ends origa…

Boarder and Body tie

 

* A tie which is used mainly used for bordered fabrics like Saree, Furnishing materials etc.

 

* In this tie one repeats of the boarder of the boarder figure is made at CACH SIDE OF THE FABRIC ONLY.

 

* The central design is, however repeat number of times.

 

* The central portion may have a pointed or centre repeating and any appropriate number of hooks any be assigned for the boarder and body design of the fabric.

1. Sectional Tie

This kind of tie is used in Jacquard weaving where more than one kind of warp is used. In this system the comber board is divided in to 2 or more equal parts. Similarly, the hooks are divided into two sections, such that they are in some protection as the warp threads of each kind from each section of hook. The harness cord is passed through a separate longitudinal section of the comber board and each kind of warp is drawn through the harness mails of the section allotted to it.

2. Mixed Tie

 

This tie-up is a combination of the straight through boarder and centre tie-up methods. This system is employed for the purpose of enabling a certain portion of the design to be introduced more or less frequently than others portion. The first set of 160 hooks is harnessed in a boarder tie manner. The next 80 hooks the remaining 160 hooks are harnessed in a painted its manner.

                        1. Figured single cloth

Method of producing Figured single cloth-

 

Warp- Single series, single colour

Jacquard- Ordinary Jacquard, 1 Hook 1 Needle

Tie/Draft- Straight tie and Straight Draft.

 

Graph preparation-

1. The numbers of ends in the Graph = Numbers of Hooks

2. Numbers of picks in the graph = Depends on the length of the design and picks per Inch.

3. Enlarge and give stepping

4. Point the figure portion to show warp up leaving ground portion to show Weft up.

5. Given binding marks in figure and ground portion (Plain, Twill and Satin etc) binding mark are not given in the corners and stepping.

6. Indicate selvedge weave marks.

7. Divide the ends in graph. Number of ends in each group = Numbers of needle in short rows.

 

Punching

1 Pick = 1 Card, Pu…

Lacing-

All the cards are laced in the regular order 1,2,3,4,.....

Weaving-

Weaving is done with single shuttle with mono color.

 

    

                        2. Figured Damask Cloth-

Method of producing figured Damask-

Warp- Single series, Single colour.

Jacquard- Ordinary Jacquard

1 Hook = 1 Needle

Tue/Draft- Straight tie and Straight draft.

 

In straight tie and straight draft system an ordinary Jacquard is used in which in which the Hooks and Needles are connected in the ordinary manner.

First Needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on till the last Needle and last Hook of the machine.

 

With the first hook of the machine the first harness cord is connected. Second Hook. The third to the third and so on

Graph preparation-

1. Numbers of ends in the Graph = Number of Hook.

2. Numbers of pick in the

Graph = Depends on the length of the design and picks per Inch.

3. Enlarge and give stepping.

4. Paint the figured portion to show warp up leaving ground portion to show Weft up.

5. Give binding mark in figure and ground portion.

6. Indicate selvedge weave mark.

7. Divide the ends in groups, Numbers of ends in each group = Numbers of Needles in short row.

Punching-

1 Pick = 1Card

Punch marks in ground portion and also punched painted portion leaving marks over painted portion.

 

Lacing-

All the cards are laced in the regular order 1,2,3,4,......

 

Weaving-

Weaving is done through single shuttle with mono colour.

 

3. Figured interchanging Double Cloth ( DC-2 Colour Effect)-

Figured interchanging two colour effect Double Cloth are produce by having consist 1:1 light and dark colour arrangement in the warp and weft.

 

Two plain layers of cloth one over the another from the ground parts.

 

If the top cloth layer is in light warp

If the top cloth layer is in light colour warp and light colour weft combination, the bottom cloth layer

is in dark colour warp and dark colour weft combination.

 

 

Similarly, two plain layers of cloth one over the others exactly opposite to ground parts from the figure parts.

That is if the top cloth layer is in dark colour warp and dark colour weft combination,  the bottom cloth layer is in light colour warp and light colour weft combination or vice-versa.

 

 

Therefore both in ground and figure portions two layers of cloth remain separate but interchange between each other where the ground changes to figure and figure changes to ground.

 

These interchanging places are the stitching places of the double cloth...

 

 

The weave of the layers is mostly plain. In few parts twills and other simple weave are also used.

 

 

Four (4) Loom technique that are mostly used for…

1. No of ends in guide graph = No. Hooks/2

2. No of picks in main graph  = total picks of the Design.

3. In the main graph stepping is given following the stepping of guide graph.

4. Every one step in each direction of the guide graph is doubled in the main graph.

5. Because of this at least one light and one dark thread are made available even in the minimum gap of the figure and ground.

6. Give the following weave in ground and figure portion.

7. While giving weaving marks in the graph it is necessary to start the repeat of the weaves by continuing the order of colouring, for this the graph can be divided in to 4 ends and 4 picks in the margin.

8. Since the double cloth weave is an equal face weave, it is necessary to give the weaves mark up to the corner…

 

 

4. Figured interchanging Double cloth (DC-4 colour Effect)

1. Light + Light and Dark + Dark is two solid colour effect, which ger interchanged to produce two colour effect double cloth.

2. In 4 colour effect Double cloth a part from the Light + Light and Dark + Dark solid colour combination are also used.

3. They are Light + Dark and Dark + Light which interchanged each other.

4. In four colour Double cloth out of the 2 solid colour combination, one is used in the ground and other is used in most of the figure parts.

 

5. The Light + Dark and Dark + Light mixed combination is used only in few of the figure parts, since it gives only subdued appearance in the cloth.

 

Method of producing figured interchanging Double cloth (DC4)

 

Warp & Weft- 2 series of warp …

Main Graph preparation-

 

1. No of ends in main graph 2 nos of hook.

2. Numbers of = Total picks of the design.

3. In the main graph stepping is given following the stepping of guide graph .

4. Every one step in each direction of the guide graph is doubled in the main graph.

5. Because of this at least one light and one dark thread are made available  even in the minimum gape of the figure and ground.

 

6. Gives the following weaves in ground and different parts of the figure portion.

7 while giving weaves mark on the graph it is necessary to start the repeat of the weave by confirming the order of colouring, for this the graph can be divided in to 4 ends and 4 picks in the margin.

8. Since the Double cloth weave is an equal face weave, it is necessary to give  the weave marks up to the corner of stepping. Indicate selvedge weave mark. (Modified twill weave).

9. Devide the ends in the graph in groups according to the numbers of needles in the short row of the Jacquad.

Punching-

Punch all marks.....1,2,3,4,5.....1 Pick = 1 Card

All the cards are numbered in the order of 1,2,3,4,5,..,

 

Lacing-

All the cards are laced in regular 1,2,3,4,5....sequence.

 

Weaving-

Having two shuttles with one light and one dark colour and different weft colours from warp.

Weaving is carried in 1:1 order.

5. Figured Warp Backed Cloth

1. Figured warp backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the weft backed structure.

2. Interchanging figured warp backed cloth are produce by using single colour weft and two colour of warp e.i light and dark colour.

3. The quality of warp for the both colours should be same.

4. In ground portion if light colour warp is on the face, dark colour warp remains back.

5. In figured portion if dark colour warps is on the face , light colour warp remain back.

6. This can be vice-versa also.

7. These structures are mainly used for furnishing.

8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a warp surface is produced on both sides.

Reversible warp backed cloth-

Face and Back same weaves are used in riverside war…

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6. Figured Weft Backed Cloth

1. Figured weft backed cloth structure are exactly opposite to the warp backed cloth structure.

2. Interchanging figured weft backed cloth are produce by using single colour warp and two colour of weft i.e. light and dark.

3. The quality of weft for both the colours should be same.

4. In ground portions if light colour weft is on the face, dark colour weft remains back.

5. In figure portions if dark colour weft is on the face, light colour weft remains back.

6. This can be vice-versa also.

7. These structures are mainly used for Blankets and Rugs.

8. The basic binding weave is same in every part of the cloth and a weft surface is produced on bith sides.

 

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7. Figured Extra Warp Cloth-

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8. Figured Extra Weft Cloth-

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9. Figured Pique Cloth-

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10. Figured Patent Satin Cloth-

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Reversible Warp Backed Cloth-

 

Face and back same weave are used is reversible warp backed cloth i.e. 5 thread twill on both sides.

 

Non-Reversible warp backed cloth

 

Face and back different weaves are used that is non-Reversible warp backed cloth i.e., 2/2 twill on face side and 1/3 twill on back side.

 

In Straight tie and straight draft system on ordinary Jacquard is used in which the hooks and needles are connected in the ordinary manners.

 

First needle of the machine controls first hooks in the machine and continued so on twill the last needle and last hooks of the machine.

 

With the first hook of the machine, the machine, the first harness cord is connected, the second harness cord to the second harness cord to the second hook. The third to third and so on.

Graph preparation-

 

Numbers of end in the graph = Jacquard capacity

 

OR

 

Numbers of ends in the graph = EPI  x  width of the motif

 

 

Numbers of picks in the graph = Total numbers of picks

 

OR

 

PPI x Length / Height of the motif

 

2. Regular enlargement and stepping is carried

 

3. In the ground portion dark picks are shaded and in the figure portions light picks are shaded.

4. Two different colour can be used for this purpose.

5. As per the weave selected the binding marks are given in shaded and non- shaded portions.

a) The binding marks are not given in the horizontal edges of shaded and non-shaded lines.

b) The binding marks are not given where the horizontal lines length (weft float length) is less than the float length of the binding weave selected.

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Jacquard 5th Semister Notes of IIHT

Parts of Jacquard and their functions |

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